1999 Paleo Rosso

Bolgheri and Maremma more broadly are home to a number of showy, world-class estates. In that context, Le Macchiole stands out for its decidedly artisan scale and approach. The estate’s Messorio (Merlot) and Scrio (Syrah) seem to get most of the attention, while Paleo Rosso is sadly often overlooked. Over the last ten years, Paleo Rosso has established itself as one of the great wines of Tuscany and Italy. This vertical going back to 1992 provided an opportunity to check in on a large number of wines. The only vintage missing was 1998, which proprietor Cinzia Merli omitted because she wasn't entirely satisfied with the wine.

Owner Cinzia Campolmi and consultant Luca d'Attoma do not aspire to make highly extracted wines, feeling that this would blur the distinction between their output and the many internationally styled wines available elsewhere. The newer plantings at this property are at very high vine density, low-yielding clones have been introduced, and intense green harvesting has become the norm. Campolmi told me during my recent visit that cabernet sauvignon is being phased out in favor of cabernet franc. In fact, the well-regarded Paleo, which until now was a blend of the two cabernets, has been made with a steadily growing percentage of cabernet franc and in the 2001 vintage (not yet bottled at the time of my visit) reached 100% franc. As with the other estates in the Bolgheri area where I was able to taste barrel samples of the 2001 harvest, it appears that in terms of complexity and elegance 2001 will emerge as the best vintage of Paleo among the trio of harvests that began with 1999. Campolmi attributes this to the cabernet franc, which seems especially attuned to the soils and exposure of this estate.