2014 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru

As this estate’s vineyards were out of the hail zone in 2015, the harvest did not begin until September 7. According to export manager Margaux Laroche, the estate then stopped for several days and then finished up on the 17th. Nothing was chaptalized in 2015 and the wines will be bottled with alcohol around 13.5%, according to winemaker Thibaud Baudin, who noted that the alcoholic fermentations were very slow in 2015 due to the high sugar levels in the grapes. The malos, on the other hand, were very early but all of the wines were still on their lees at the time of my visit in early June. The estate plans to bottle its top wines in December.

According to Margaux Laroche, “2014 is a beautiful vintage for Chablis lovers and is Michel’s favorite due to its high level of acidity and real concentration of flavor. “ Alcohol levels range between 12.2% and 13.1%, without chaptalization. The pressing was very gentle in 2014 in order to avoid getting any grassy or vegetal notes, but stronger in 2015.

Incidentally, Laroche has her work cut out for her as export manager, as production here is rising sharply as Michel Laroche’s vineyards revert back to him following his sale of Domaine Laroche to the Languedoc-based négociant Jean in late 2009. Production in vintage 2013 was just 30,000 bottles but will rise to 120,000 in 2015, and by 2019 this estate will have control of 22 hectares of vines.