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There’s a lot to explore in these new releases from Laherte. Most of the wines are a bit softer than usual, which is probably a reflection of the warmer base vintages in many of the bottlings. What I admire most about these Champagnes is their purity and singularity of expression. Varietal and site character are always front and center. Organic/biodynamic farming and a minimalist approach in the cellar inform these wonderfully distinctive Champagnes. It’s next to impossible to choose favorites in this range.

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2021 - 2025

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Once again I was deeply impressed with Aurélien Laherte’s Champagnes. The range continues to grow, and yet each wine has a sense of purpose. Some are explorations of a single grape, others exalt the qualities of small parcels and then there are wines that showcase the principles of blending. All of these Champagnes share a feeling of vinous richness that is enhanced by aging in mostly neutral oak and low dosage. The Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs remains one of my favorites for its quality and price, but it’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these Champagnes.

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2020 - 2028

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Aurélien Laherte presented a fabulous range of wines this year. That will come as no surprise to readers familiar with the domaine. The variety in this lineup is truly breathtaking. Laherte does so many things well, from his Meunier-based NV cuvées, to the pure Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay lieu-dit wines to Rosés to his Les 7 bottling, which is a blend of all seven permitted grapes. These are rich, vinous Champagnes made from organically farmed vineyards, mostly done in oak for the top selections, and bottled with no dosage. I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. For what its worth, I drink them as often as I can.

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2019 - 2029

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2018 - 2028

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These Champagnes reinforce my strongly held view that Aurélien Laherte is one of the most talented vignerons of his generation in Champagne. The range this year is truly stellar. Some of the highlights include the Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs (2015 this year), a wine I often buy for my own cellar, the 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Grandes Crayères, which is new, and the (2014) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée Les Baudiers. Readers who have not tasted these Champagnes owe it to themselves do so. Aurélien Laherte is young, passionate and humble. It is only a matter of time before he is recognized as one of Champagne's elite vignerons. As for the wines, they are spectacular.

Extra Brut Rosé de Meunier

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