2007 Lagrange
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot (2023 vintage)
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2007
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2023
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Mathieu Bordes oversees one of the largest estates on the Left Bank at Château Lagrange, and so logistically, it would theoretically be a challenge to keep on top of the mildew pressure early in the season. “It was the rainiest of the last 25 years, but it was at the beginning and at the end of 2023. It was also the second hottest ever. Usually, you could have rot but we had no mildew at Lagrange because we sprayed in a very efficient way. One-third of the vines are organic, but we lost nothing in that sector since we can spray the entire vineyard in a day using 11 tractors. Extremely important was the time of picking, which happened from September 30 to October 1. The weather forecast was bad, and some people decided to pick their old Cabernet more quickly than planned. As it turned out, the forecast was wrong, and the weather was really nice, so we picked the great Cabernet from October 3 to 6, and the taste [of the fruit] was very different. We did some bleeding of the vats as the size of the berries was quite large to improve the skin-to-juice ratio and improve the mid-palate.”
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2023
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2018
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2018
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2017
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Lagrange is a huge estate. Located more inland than the likes of say Ducru Beaucaillou or Léoville Las-Cases, they were more vulnerable to frost and so it came to pass. It turned into a game of catch-up. “There is no white wine due to frost although there are just 1,000 bottles for private use,” winemaker Matthieu Bordes told me. “The parcels destroyed were all under 13-metres in altitude. Here the damage was between 5% to 100%, mainly plots for Les Fiefs de Lagrange and also some for Lagrange. There was a five-week delay between the primary and secondary fruit, but the flowering was early and we thought there was a possibility we might be able to wait, if we have another Indian summer. So we marked all the 250,000 vines to indicate those with secondary bunches, so that we could separate them during the harvest. By mi-véraison the delay was reduced to 18 days but unfortunately there was no Indian summer and we could not wait that long, so in the end, all the secondary bunches ended up at the distillery. They were unripe with some rot because of the high level of nitrogen. For the good grapes we produced 55% Grand Vin whereas usually it is 35%, since there is less Les Fiefs de Lagrange. Also the blend is unusual. It is the first time there is more Merlot than Cabernet in Les Fiefs de Lagrange, it is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever for Lagrange. We find the 2017s are very approachable in style. It reminds me of the 2009 and 2012 with a different level of concentration, a wine that doesn’t make you tired. We did a little less extraction than in 2016 with only one déléstage with one pumping over per day. We did not want to extract too much.”
Now this is one of a handful of major château that I feel was hampered by the frost. Despite their wise decision to eschew the second-generation fruit, the barrel sample lacked the usual energy and harmony. Readers will know that I am a fan of Lagrange. They have produced marvelous and lest we forget, well-priced wines in recent years. Even when judged against its close neighbors such as Gruaud Larose and Talbot, the Lagrange feels like the best the team could do under the circumstances, but it lags a couple of paces behind its peers.
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2016
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2016
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2016
2023 - 2056
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2016
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2015
2024 - 2044
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2015
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2015
2020 - 2035
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2015
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2014
2027 - 2047
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2014
2023 - 2040
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2014
2020 - 2045
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2014
2022 - 2044
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2014
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2013
2021 - 2028
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2013
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2013
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2012
2022 - 2034
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2012
2022 - 2038
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2012
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2011
2022 - 2032
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2011
2022 - 2035
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2011
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2011
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2010
2022 - 2048
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2010
2022 - 2055
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2010
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2010
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2010
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2009
2021 - 2044
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2009
2022 - 2045
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2009
2022 - 2045
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2009
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2009
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2008
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2008
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2007
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2007
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The Japanese owners of this large St. Julien estate have a very precise plan for continued improvements here. In 2008 they will replace the 200-hectoliter vats with containers about half that size to facilitate more precise harvesting and vinification; in 2009 they plan to renovate the cuverie and the reception area for the fruit; and in 2010 they will move to still smaller vinification tanks holding about 50 hectoliters. Following the retirement last year of long-time estate manager Marcel Ducasse, direction is now in the hands of Bruno Eynard, who worked with Ducasse for 17 years and described himself as "a student of Marcel," assuring me that no major changes are in the works. "We have the same vision, that Lagrange should strike a balance between power and elegance," he explained. "If anything, I would like our wine to gain in elegance." This will be mostly a matter of picking fruit with perfect ripeness, he went on, and the move to significantly smaller vats will facilitate this process, as it allows for the vinification of smaller lots with more even ripeness levels. When I asked Eynard why he considers 2007 to be a year of cabernet, he responded that this later-picked variety benefited from two more weeks of sun in September than the merlot did. "That's the only explanation I can think of," he concluded. "The merlot had the technical numbers [actually, as high as 14.5% potential alcohol] but the fruit wasn't really phenolically ripe."
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2006
2021 - 2035
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The Japanese owners of this large St. Julien estate have a very precise plan for continued improvements here. In 2008 they will replace the 200-hectoliter vats with containers about half that size to facilitate more precise harvesting and vinification; in 2009 they plan to renovate the cuverie and the reception area for the fruit; and in 2010 they will move to still smaller vinification tanks holding about 50 hectoliters. Following the retirement last year of long-time estate manager Marcel Ducasse, direction is now in the hands of Bruno Eynard, who worked with Ducasse for 17 years and described himself as "a student of Marcel," assuring me that no major changes are in the works. "We have the same vision, that Lagrange should strike a balance between power and elegance," he explained. "If anything, I would like our wine to gain in elegance." This will be mostly a matter of picking fruit with perfect ripeness, he went on, and the move to significantly smaller vats will facilitate this process, as it allows for the vinification of smaller lots with more even ripeness levels. When I asked Eynard why he considers 2007 to be a year of cabernet, he responded that this later-picked variety benefited from two more weeks of sun in September than the merlot did. "That's the only explanation I can think of," he concluded. "The merlot had the technical numbers [actually, as high as 14.5% potential alcohol] but the fruit wasn't really phenolically ripe."
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2006
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Director Marcel Ducasse, who was scheduled to retire at the end of April after literally returning this large chateau to life for its Japanese owner Suntory since 1984, has produced a big, chocolatey-rich 2006 that represents a very strict 41% selection of the property's fruit. Ducasse declassified all the petit verdot because he found it too tannic. "The vintage was already tannic enough to begin with," he explained. "The petit verdot would have knocked the wine off balance. With tannins that were denser than normal [the IPT is currently 80], we had to extract carefully. And of course it was impossible to use Entropie or reverse osmosis because we began with elevated grape sugars."
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2005
2021 - 2040
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2005
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The Japanese owners of this large St. Julien estate have a very precise plan for continued improvements here. In 2008 they will replace the 200-hectoliter vats with containers about half that size to facilitate more precise harvesting and vinification; in 2009 they plan to renovate the cuverie and the reception area for the fruit; and in 2010 they will move to still smaller vinification tanks holding about 50 hectoliters. Following the retirement last year of long-time estate manager Marcel Ducasse, direction is now in the hands of Bruno Eynard, who worked with Ducasse for 17 years and described himself as "a student of Marcel," assuring me that no major changes are in the works. "We have the same vision, that Lagrange should strike a balance between power and elegance," he explained. "If anything, I would like our wine to gain in elegance." This will be mostly a matter of picking fruit with perfect ripeness, he went on, and the move to significantly smaller vats will facilitate this process, as it allows for the vinification of smaller lots with more even ripeness levels. When I asked Eynard why he considers 2007 to be a year of cabernet, he responded that this later-picked variety benefited from two more weeks of sun in September than the merlot did. "That's the only explanation I can think of," he concluded. "The merlot had the technical numbers [actually, as high as 14.5% potential alcohol] but the fruit wasn't really phenolically ripe."
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2005
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Director Marcel Ducasse, who was scheduled to retire at the end of April after literally returning this large chateau to life for its Japanese owner Suntory since 1984, has produced a big, chocolatey-rich 2006 that represents a very strict 41% selection of the property's fruit. Ducasse declassified all the petit verdot because he found it too tannic. "The vintage was already tannic enough to begin with," he explained. "The petit verdot would have knocked the wine off balance. With tannins that were denser than normal [the IPT is currently 80], we had to extract carefully. And of course it was impossible to use Entropie or reverse osmosis because we began with elevated grape sugars."
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2005
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"The key to the 2005 vintage is that it was a drought year but with cool nights in August and September," said director Marcel Ducasse, who harvested his cabernet sauvignon until October 10. The final blend features a relatively high 45% merlot, and alcohol of 13.7%.
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2004
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2004
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2004
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Director Marcel Ducasse, who was scheduled to retire at the end of April after literally returning this large chateau to life for its Japanese owner Suntory since 1984, has produced a big, chocolatey-rich 2006 that represents a very strict 41% selection of the property's fruit. Ducasse declassified all the petit verdot because he found it too tannic. "The vintage was already tannic enough to begin with," he explained. "The petit verdot would have knocked the wine off balance. With tannins that were denser than normal [the IPT is currently 80], we had to extract carefully. And of course it was impossible to use Entropie or reverse osmosis because we began with elevated grape sugars."
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2004
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"The key to the 2005 vintage is that it was a drought year but with cool nights in August and September," said director Marcel Ducasse, who harvested his cabernet sauvignon until October 10. The final blend features a relatively high 45% merlot, and alcohol of 13.7%.
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2004
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The team here carried out its usual green harvest in July, but Ducasse said he was still surprised by the size of the crop, which he described as "our biggest ever." It was necessary to send off some fruit to the distillery. The 2004 blend represents a 38% selection of the estate's fruit.
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2003
2023 - 2033
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2003
2021 - 2028
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2003
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"The key to the 2005 vintage is that it was a drought year but with cool nights in August and September," said director Marcel Ducasse, who harvested his cabernet sauvignon until October 10. The final blend features a relatively high 45% merlot, and alcohol of 13.7%.
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2003
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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The team here carried out its usual green harvest in July, but Ducasse said he was still surprised by the size of the crop, which he described as "our biggest ever." It was necessary to send off some fruit to the distillery. The 2004 blend represents a 38% selection of the estate's fruit.
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2003
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Marcel Ducasse describes 2003 as a "normal" year, yielding a classic, structured wine without great concentration or density, especially compared to the estate's very strong 2002. Both vintages are carrying atypically high 13.3% alcohol. Ducasse pointed out that Lagrange is doing a much better job today of evaluating the quality of the tannins in its grapes. "In the old days, when we were much less sophisticated, we might have started the 2003 harvest at the end of August," he told me. "But we actually started on September 11." Ultimately the index of polyphenols in 2003 reached a high 71, but the tannins are not especially aggressive.
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2002
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The team here carried out its usual green harvest in July, but Ducasse said he was still surprised by the size of the crop, which he described as "our biggest ever." It was necessary to send off some fruit to the distillery. The 2004 blend represents a 38% selection of the estate's fruit.
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2002
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Marcel Ducasse describes 2003 as a "normal" year, yielding a classic, structured wine without great concentration or density, especially compared to the estate's very strong 2002. Both vintages are carrying atypically high 13.3% alcohol. Ducasse pointed out that Lagrange is doing a much better job today of evaluating the quality of the tannins in its grapes. "In the old days, when we were much less sophisticated, we might have started the 2003 harvest at the end of August," he told me. "But we actually started on September 11." Ultimately the index of polyphenols in 2003 reached a high 71, but the tannins are not especially aggressive.
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"I've been in the wine business for 35 years, and 2002 was the first year when I didn't chaptalize or use any concentration technique for the cabernet sauvignon," said director Marcel Ducasse. Ducasse described the 2002 merlot as "correct," though he noted that grape sugars reached 14.6%. The petit verdot was uncommonly concentrated and ripe, "like a very good zinfandel," and Ducasse felt it contributed fullness to the blend. "The 2002 is atypical in its combination of fresh fruit with volume and concentration. We've really had three good years in a row," he added. "Wine lovers should start drinking the 2000 first, because it's opulent, unctuous and not at all aggressive."
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2001
2021 - 2038
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2001
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
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Marcel Ducasse describes 2003 as a "normal" year, yielding a classic, structured wine without great concentration or density, especially compared to the estate's very strong 2002. Both vintages are carrying atypically high 13.3% alcohol. Ducasse pointed out that Lagrange is doing a much better job today of evaluating the quality of the tannins in its grapes. "In the old days, when we were much less sophisticated, we might have started the 2003 harvest at the end of August," he told me. "But we actually started on September 11." Ultimately the index of polyphenols in 2003 reached a high 71, but the tannins are not especially aggressive.
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2001
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"I've been in the wine business for 35 years, and 2002 was the first year when I didn't chaptalize or use any concentration technique for the cabernet sauvignon," said director Marcel Ducasse. Ducasse described the 2002 merlot as "correct," though he noted that grape sugars reached 14.6%. The petit verdot was uncommonly concentrated and ripe, "like a very good zinfandel," and Ducasse felt it contributed fullness to the blend. "The 2002 is atypical in its combination of fresh fruit with volume and concentration. We've really had three good years in a row," he added. "Wine lovers should start drinking the 2000 first, because it's opulent, unctuous and not at all aggressive."
00
2001
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Director Georges Pauli practices a rather robust vinification, doing a month-long maceration, and drawing out the fermentation to permit as much remontage as possible for better extraction of good tannins (Pauli describes this approach as "extraction through diffusion"). A good portion of the malolactic fermentation takes place in new barrels, and not just for the merlot. Pauli told me he loves the way the oxygenation that occurs during malolactic in barriques fixes the color of the wine.Gruaud-Larose2001Deep ruby color. Somewhat jammy aromas of roasted black cherry, boysenberry, chocolate, leather and earth; distinct evidence of surmaturite Then dense and lush but quite dry in the mouth, with primary, slightly grapey flavors of currant and blackberry and solid underlying minerality. Comes across as a bit hard-edged today, but I suspect this chewy wine should prove to possess enough density to support its somewhat austere, toothcoating tannins.87-90Gruaud-Larose2000$69-$110Saturated medium ruby. Deep aromas of black cherry, currant, coffee, dark chocolate, meat and leather; liqueur-like without coming across as roasted. Then hugely sweet and rich, with a distinctly velvety texture. Good vinosity gives the mid-palate a sappy character. Finishes very long, with a boatload of sweet, building tannins. Director Pauli hoped to bottle the 2000 in May without filtration. Analytically, both this vintage and the 2001 are atypically rich in polyphe125nols. But this is far more opulent.91-94Gruaud-Larose1999$34-$37Full medium ruby. Highly aromatic, expressive nose combines currant, espresso, saddle leather and roasted meat. Sweet, lush and smooth, but given definition by its vinosity. Not especially refined, but plummy and mouthfilling. Ripe tannins saturate the teeth and the sides of the mouth on the long finish.89Lagrange." The 2001 crop required strict selection due to the widely varying ripeness of fruit," noted director Marcel Ducasse. "But the crop level was lower than that of 2000, with the merlot particularly concentrated. The wine has personality and energy; it's not wimpy. 2001 is a serious vintage in a rather stern style; it's not for novices." The new wine includes 11% petit verdot (along with 62% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot), whereas no petit verdot went into the 2000, because in the earlier year this fruit was "too powerful, too rustic; it threw the wine off balance."
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
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"I've been in the wine business for 35 years, and 2002 was the first year when I didn't chaptalize or use any concentration technique for the cabernet sauvignon," said director Marcel Ducasse. Ducasse described the 2002 merlot as "correct," though he noted that grape sugars reached 14.6%. The petit verdot was uncommonly concentrated and ripe, "like a very good zinfandel," and Ducasse felt it contributed fullness to the blend. "The 2002 is atypical in its combination of fresh fruit with volume and concentration. We've really had three good years in a row," he added. "Wine lovers should start drinking the 2000 first, because it's opulent, unctuous and not at all aggressive."
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Director Georges Pauli practices a rather robust vinification, doing a month-long maceration, and drawing out the fermentation to permit as much remontage as possible for better extraction of good tannins (Pauli describes this approach as "extraction through diffusion"). A good portion of the malolactic fermentation takes place in new barrels, and not just for the merlot. Pauli told me he loves the way the oxygenation that occurs during malolactic in barriques fixes the color of the wine.Gruaud-Larose2001Deep ruby color. Somewhat jammy aromas of roasted black cherry, boysenberry, chocolate, leather and earth; distinct evidence of surmaturite Then dense and lush but quite dry in the mouth, with primary, slightly grapey flavors of currant and blackberry and solid underlying minerality. Comes across as a bit hard-edged today, but I suspect this chewy wine should prove to possess enough density to support its somewhat austere, toothcoating tannins.87-90Gruaud-Larose2000$69-$110Saturated medium ruby. Deep aromas of black cherry, currant, coffee, dark chocolate, meat and leather; liqueur-like without coming across as roasted. Then hugely sweet and rich, with a distinctly velvety texture. Good vinosity gives the mid-palate a sappy character. Finishes very long, with a boatload of sweet, building tannins. Director Pauli hoped to bottle the 2000 in May without filtration. Analytically, both this vintage and the 2001 are atypically rich in polyphe125nols. But this is far more opulent.91-94Gruaud-Larose1999$34-$37Full medium ruby. Highly aromatic, expressive nose combines currant, espresso, saddle leather and roasted meat. Sweet, lush and smooth, but given definition by its vinosity. Not especially refined, but plummy and mouthfilling. Ripe tannins saturate the teeth and the sides of the mouth on the long finish.89Lagrange." The 2001 crop required strict selection due to the widely varying ripeness of fruit," noted director Marcel Ducasse. "But the crop level was lower than that of 2000, with the merlot particularly concentrated. The wine has personality and energy; it's not wimpy. 2001 is a serious vintage in a rather stern style; it's not for novices." The new wine includes 11% petit verdot (along with 62% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot), whereas no petit verdot went into the 2000, because in the earlier year this fruit was "too powerful, too rustic; it threw the wine off balance."
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"A great combination of balance and power; strong but harmonious," is how director Marcel Ducasse describes this estate 2000, a wine that features an unusually high 76% cabernet sauvignon component. The wine was easy to vinify, Ducasse added, and appears to be more elegant and more profound than the juicier '96. For the first time since 1989 the petit verdot was left out of the blend, as Ducasse felt it was "too tannic, too powerful and rustic." As in 1999, the overall crop level for the estate was the maximum permitted 58 hectoliters per hectare, but less for the best vines that normally go into the grand vin
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1999
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1999
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Director Georges Pauli practices a rather robust vinification, doing a month-long maceration, and drawing out the fermentation to permit as much remontage as possible for better extraction of good tannins (Pauli describes this approach as "extraction through diffusion"). A good portion of the malolactic fermentation takes place in new barrels, and not just for the merlot. Pauli told me he loves the way the oxygenation that occurs during malolactic in barriques fixes the color of the wine.Gruaud-Larose2001Deep ruby color. Somewhat jammy aromas of roasted black cherry, boysenberry, chocolate, leather and earth; distinct evidence of surmaturite Then dense and lush but quite dry in the mouth, with primary, slightly grapey flavors of currant and blackberry and solid underlying minerality. Comes across as a bit hard-edged today, but I suspect this chewy wine should prove to possess enough density to support its somewhat austere, toothcoating tannins.87-90Gruaud-Larose2000$69-$110Saturated medium ruby. Deep aromas of black cherry, currant, coffee, dark chocolate, meat and leather; liqueur-like without coming across as roasted. Then hugely sweet and rich, with a distinctly velvety texture. Good vinosity gives the mid-palate a sappy character. Finishes very long, with a boatload of sweet, building tannins. Director Pauli hoped to bottle the 2000 in May without filtration. Analytically, both this vintage and the 2001 are atypically rich in polyphe125nols. But this is far more opulent.91-94Gruaud-Larose1999$34-$37Full medium ruby. Highly aromatic, expressive nose combines currant, espresso, saddle leather and roasted meat. Sweet, lush and smooth, but given definition by its vinosity. Not especially refined, but plummy and mouthfilling. Ripe tannins saturate the teeth and the sides of the mouth on the long finish.89Lagrange." The 2001 crop required strict selection due to the widely varying ripeness of fruit," noted director Marcel Ducasse. "But the crop level was lower than that of 2000, with the merlot particularly concentrated. The wine has personality and energy; it's not wimpy. 2001 is a serious vintage in a rather stern style; it's not for novices." The new wine includes 11% petit verdot (along with 62% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot), whereas no petit verdot went into the 2000, because in the earlier year this fruit was "too powerful, too rustic; it threw the wine off balance."
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"A great combination of balance and power; strong but harmonious," is how director Marcel Ducasse describes this estate 2000, a wine that features an unusually high 76% cabernet sauvignon component. The wine was easy to vinify, Ducasse added, and appears to be more elegant and more profound than the juicier '96. For the first time since 1989 the petit verdot was left out of the blend, as Ducasse felt it was "too tannic, too powerful and rustic." As in 1999, the overall crop level for the estate was the maximum permitted 58 hectoliters per hectare, but less for the best vines that normally go into the grand vin
00
1999
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The period of heat and drought in August and early September gave the vintage strong early potential, said director Marcel Ducasse, but the fruit was slowly diluted over time with the stubborn September rains. As a result, says Ducasse, the '99s will be facile, agreeable wines of moderate density and concentration, with "less energy for the future" than the '98s. Lagrange's petit verdot was rich, ripe and solid, added Ducasse, and thus all of it will be used in the grand vin. The '99 features the lowest percentage of merlot (25%) since 1984 (and the '98 is the second lowest at 28%), but that's less a comment on the quality of the merlot here than on the fact that the young cabernet vines are now maturing.
00
1998
2021 - 2030
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00
1998
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00
1998
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1998
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"A great combination of balance and power; strong but harmonious," is how director Marcel Ducasse describes this estate 2000, a wine that features an unusually high 76% cabernet sauvignon component. The wine was easy to vinify, Ducasse added, and appears to be more elegant and more profound than the juicier '96. For the first time since 1989 the petit verdot was left out of the blend, as Ducasse felt it was "too tannic, too powerful and rustic." As in 1999, the overall crop level for the estate was the maximum permitted 58 hectoliters per hectare, but less for the best vines that normally go into the grand vin
00
1998
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The period of heat and drought in August and early September gave the vintage strong early potential, said director Marcel Ducasse, but the fruit was slowly diluted over time with the stubborn September rains. As a result, says Ducasse, the '99s will be facile, agreeable wines of moderate density and concentration, with "less energy for the future" than the '98s. Lagrange's petit verdot was rich, ripe and solid, added Ducasse, and thus all of it will be used in the grand vin. The '99 features the lowest percentage of merlot (25%) since 1984 (and the '98 is the second lowest at 28%), but that's less a comment on the quality of the merlot here than on the fact that the young cabernet vines are now maturing.
00
1998
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Here the '98 includes less merlot than in recent years, as director Marcel Ducasse felt it lacked energy and density. The yield for the domain was 58 hectoliters per hectare, and just 36% of the crop went into the grand vin. Ducasse describes the wine as having average to high acidity--and more than the '96. It rather like a super-'88, he says, with a structure similar to the earlier year but greater ripeness. Still, it's a particularly tough time to taste the new wine, Ducasse notes; the only influence of the oak at this early stage is to dry the wine.
00
1997
2021 - 2027
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1997
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1997
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Here the '98 includes less merlot than in recent years, as director Marcel Ducasse felt it lacked energy and density. The yield for the domain was 58 hectoliters per hectare, and just 36% of the crop went into the grand vin. Ducasse describes the wine as having average to high acidity--and more than the '96. It rather like a super-'88, he says, with a structure similar to the earlier year but greater ripeness. Still, it's a particularly tough time to taste the new wine, Ducasse notes; the only influence of the oak at this early stage is to dry the wine.
00
1997
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Marcel Ducasse did an eclaircissage in July in an attempt to hold yields to 55 hectoliters per hectare, but admits that getting low yields was tough because the grapes in '97 were so big. He ultimately declassified 69% of his crop; "otherwise the wine would have been too dilute." The resulting wine will be an early charmer. Ducasse experimented with malolactic in barriques in '96 but is not yet prepared to make extensive use of this technique. "It may well work better for merlot," he admits. "And it seems to give a more complete wine early on. But even though it may make the wine better after six months, I'm not yet convinced of any long-term advantage."
00
1996
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00
1996
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1996
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Here the '98 includes less merlot than in recent years, as director Marcel Ducasse felt it lacked energy and density. The yield for the domain was 58 hectoliters per hectare, and just 36% of the crop went into the grand vin. Ducasse describes the wine as having average to high acidity--and more than the '96. It rather like a super-'88, he says, with a structure similar to the earlier year but greater ripeness. Still, it's a particularly tough time to taste the new wine, Ducasse notes; the only influence of the oak at this early stage is to dry the wine.
00
1996
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Marcel Ducasse did an eclaircissage in July in an attempt to hold yields to 55 hectoliters per hectare, but admits that getting low yields was tough because the grapes in '97 were so big. He ultimately declassified 69% of his crop; "otherwise the wine would have been too dilute." The resulting wine will be an early charmer. Ducasse experimented with malolactic in barriques in '96 but is not yet prepared to make extensive use of this technique. "It may well work better for merlot," he admits. "And it seems to give a more complete wine early on. But even though it may make the wine better after six months, I'm not yet convinced of any long-term advantage."
00
1995
2021 - 2026
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00
1995
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1995
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Marcel Ducasse did an eclaircissage in July in an attempt to hold yields to 55 hectoliters per hectare, but admits that getting low yields was tough because the grapes in '97 were so big. He ultimately declassified 69% of his crop; "otherwise the wine would have been too dilute." The resulting wine will be an early charmer. Ducasse experimented with malolactic in barriques in '96 but is not yet prepared to make extensive use of this technique. "It may well work better for merlot," he admits. "And it seems to give a more complete wine early on. But even though it may make the wine better after six months, I'm not yet convinced of any long-term advantage."
00
1994
2021 - 2024
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00
1994
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1993
2021 - 2022
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1993
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1992
2021 - 2021
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1992
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1991
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00
1990
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1990
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1990
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1989
2021 - 2030
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1989
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1988
2021 - 2024
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1988
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1988
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1987
2021 - 2024
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1986
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1986
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1985
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1985
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The modern era for this St. Julien third growth began in 1983, when the Japanese giant Suntory purchased this large estate at the southern end of the appellation directly to the west of Gruaud-Larose. In the middle of the 19th century, Lagrange had been the largest estate in the Médoc, with 300 hectares of land, 100 of which were under vine, in a single block surrounding the château. But due to financial difficulties through much of the 20th century, the estate had dwindled to 160 hectares by the time it was sold to Suntory, with only 56 hectares producing grapes.x000D x000D The property was in a sorry state when Suntory took over: its vines were in poor condition and its buildings and château had not been renovated following a fire in 1970. The winemaking facility was also in disrepair and full of old barrels. Michel Delon, the late owner of Château Léoville-Las Cases, was brought in by the new owners to consult (Delon remained involved here for ten years), and he quickly hired Michel Ducasse, who had been a pupil of Professor Emile Peynaud, to direct the property. Ducasse has guided the château ever since, having overseen the investment by the new owners of $40 million, or nearly four times the price Suntory paid for Lagrange in the first place.x000D x000D The total surface under vine is now 113 hectares, still in one contiguous parcel and still the largest classified growth of Bordeaux. Virtually all of the additional plantings were carried out between 1985 and 1988 (the petit verdot was the last to be planted, in 1988). The vines planted in the '80s are just now reaching an interesting age, says Ducasse, who believes that the best lies ahead for this property. Today, the estate's vineyards comprise 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% petit verdot, although until the late '90s the grand vin usually included even more merlot. Clearly, an increasing percentage of the estate's maturing cabernet vines is now going into the grand vin. Château Lagrange now features more petit verdot in its blend than virtually any other classified growth of the Médoc, as well as a higher percentage of merlot than other St. Julien châteaux. It was Ducasse who championed the planting of petit verdot, as he was convinced it would "fill in the holes of the cabernet" and give more backbone to the wine.x000D x000D A second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, was introduced in 1985, and through the years most of the estate's younger vines have gone into this label. In the new winery, there are 56 temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, which allow the team to vinify smaller lots according to variety, age of vines, date of harvesting, etc. Ducasse told me that when he arrived "it took us five years to learn our numerous parcels." Ducasse credits much of the improvement in Château Lagrange since the mid-'80s to being able to take a much more precise approach to harvesting and vinification, with the large number of smaller parcels picked at ideal ripeness and given the special treatment they need. Lagrange follows a traditional Bordeaux vinification, with 15 to 20 days of skin contact and a fermentation temperature normally around 28oC. The wine is aged for 16 to 20 months, with the percentage of new oak at least 50%.x000D x000D I tasted the following series of wines with Ducasse in New York City on a frigid day in January. Ducasse's first wine, incidentally, was the difficult vintage of 1984, when extensive coulure in the estate's merlot vines forced Lagrange to make a very cabernet sauvignon-dominated wine.x000D x000D
00
1984
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1983
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1983
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1959
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