1998 Lafon-Rochet
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Lafon-Rochet is finishing up a new first-year barrel cellar that will allow the chateau to put most of its merlot and old-vines cabernet through malolactic fermentation in barriques Guy Tesseron told me his 2000, while a very successful wine, is not in the class of the '96 or the '90, and didn't begin with the same high sugar levels of those two earlier years. On my early-morning visit here in late March, I enjoyed a spectacular rainbow against a black sky on my way in, and was pelted with hail on my way out.
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This estate's '99 will consist of 60% merlot and 40% cabernet (including about 5% franc), the opposite of the ratio actually planted, as only the older cabernet vines will go into the grand vin. Maceration of merlot was gentle, but there was more extraction from the old cabernet fruit. An expansion of the cellar in time for the 2000 harvest will enable Lafon-Rochet to do the malolactic fermentation of its cabernet in barrel; previously this practice was limited to the merlot. Both the '99 and '98 are aging in about 50% new oak, down slightly from '97.
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The Tesserons have invested in a new chai at Lafon-Rochet, which allowed them to do all of the malolactic fermentation in barrel in '98. The advantage of this technique, says Michel Tesseron, "is that it allows you to see the wine earlier, and therefore to make a better assemblage."
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