2006 Lafite-Rothschild
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More early tasters were talking up Latour and Mouton than Lafite, which has a tendency to be inscrutable in the early going, but my sample offered one of the purest and most aromatically complex noses of my trip as well as superb clarity and grip on the palate. Director Charles Chevallier told me that the estate had great fruit and strong and noble tannins until the rains came in September, and that it was necessary to pick a bit earlier than was ideal, especially in the young merlot vines. Still, he said, there was less difference between the merlot and cabernet than usual, and he was ultimately happy with the ripeness of the fruit (the cabernet sauvignon had healthy potential alcohol of 12.5%, vs. 13% in 2005). "We had 120 millimeters of rain during the harvest," he told me. "But people forget that it also rained during the harvest of 1996." He offered the opinion that the 2006 is "more powerful and classic than the 2004." Chevallier noted that the estate owns an Entropie machine but says it has only been used in 2002.
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