1998 Lafite-Rothschild

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2018 - 2050

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"The structure of '96 with the aromatic qualities and perfume of '99," says enologist Christophe Conge of the 2000 Lafite. "Polyphenols were at the level of '96, but there more flesh and the wine is less rigorous. And the skins were riper than those of '98," Conge added. "The wine seemed too tannic at the beginning, but now the tannins are more enrobed." This remarkably pure, penetrating wine is like an essence of 2000 cabernet sauvignon, hardly surprising as it includes only 7% merlot.

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Very fine August and early September weather ensured ripe grapes rich in tannins, explained director Charles Chevallier, but harvest-time rain necessitated very quick picking. Using extra pickers, Lafite finished the harvest in 13 days (a full three weeks is more normal here). Selection for the grand vin was strict; and most of the first juice was declassified. Still, notes Chevallier, extraction was easy and natural: the maceration lasted three weeks, with less remontage than usual, and there was no need to force anything. One plus in '98 was the more uniform ripening of fruit compared to the previous year.

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