1999 Carruades de Lafite
France
Pauillac 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot (2023 vintage)
00
1999
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Director Charles Chevallier was one of a minority of Bordeaux insiders who told me that the grapes were smaller and thicker-skinned in 2001 than in 2000. He describes the estate's grand vin as a "classic Medoc wine, not impressive on entry today, but with very expressive, pure fruit."
00
2023
2028 - 2043
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2023
2027 - 2047
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Instead of this First Growth, which is undergoing major renovation work, this year, the primeur tasting was held at Duhart-Milon in the heart of Pauillac town. The last time I was at Lafite-Rothschild, I was with Charles Chevalier, which will give you an idea of how long ago that was. All I vaguely remember is that it was quite dark, though this has been spruced up with a picturesque garden and pond, a tranquil oasis just off the quayside. Eric Kohler discussed the vintage with me. “The key to the vintage was the water because it was a very hot vintage. Thanks to the regular rain, the vines continued their cycle, almost too much at times. We had around 320mm between April and September, and because it was hot, water was necessary. August was not quite as warm, and that is why we have such freshness. The heat wave was a good thing because we might have suffered a lack of concentration without it. September was very hot and the harvest took place under good conditions. For me, it is a charming vintage that reminds me of 2019, though that was not quite as fresh as 2023. Perhaps there is a bit of 2016 or 2020, too? Certainly, it is more classic in style than 2018.”
00
2022
2027 - 2045
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2022
2028 - 2042
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2022
2028 - 2042
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Saskia de Rothschild is one of the most forward-thinking proprietors of her generation. All the Bordeaux vineyards are now certified organic. Perhaps more important is her decision to pull out four hectares of vineyards at Lafite-Rothschild to plant them with other crops with the goal of promoting biodiversity. As for the 2022s, they capture the best the vintage had to offer.
00
2022
2027 - 2045
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00
2021
2026 - 2042
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00
2021
2026 - 2041
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2021
2026 - 2041
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“It was a year in which we had to make strong decisions,” Technical Director Eric Kohler told me. “Flowering was a bit more challenging at Duhart than at Lafite. Ripeness was not the issue, but mildew pressure was high, especially now that we farm biodynamically. The most challenging period was July 15 to August 15. Yields were 30 and 33 hectoliters per hectare respectively,” he added. As for the wines, they are brooding and quite intense. At times I felt I was tasting wines from the 1990s, but with an added dimension of purity in the fruit.
00
2021
2026 - 2042
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“It was easy until flowering,” quipped Eric Kohler when I visited the First Growth, Saskia de Rothschild occupied by visiting royalty. “We were not concerned by frost. There was a long and wet period that began in mid-June until mid-August. We had 250mm of rain in June and July. If the rain had fallen over just three or four days, then it would not have been a big problem, but it was always wet and humid. This meant the fight against mildew was difficult. Also, we are in conversion, our first year in 2021 (L’Evangile began in 2018). We were ready though, as we took enough time to prepare. After the fight [with the inclement weather] there was one month of excellent conditions until 10 September when we really saw the vintage and maturity changing. The first analysis of sugar level was not as high as it had been in 2018, 2019 or 2020, but it was impressive for the conditions we had faced, and after that, the progress in maturity was excellent and restored a lot of hope. We saw some light rain, and this added a bit of pressure and persuaded us not to wait, especially on precocious terroirs. So, we started picking on 22 September, though the heart of the picking was really from 27 September and finished on 8 October. We had been successful in terms of protecting the crop and picked at 33hL/ha at Lafite-Rothschild and 30hL/ha at Duhart-Milon. Maturity was satisfying considering the summer, though we never lost hope. During the vinification, we found good colour and density, the extraction went well, and rapidly we became more confident in 2012. On the Left Bank, we felt it was more difficult for the Merlot as it was more sensitive during the summer, the berries gorged with water and the véraison more spun out compared to Cabernet Sauvignon. So, there is less Merlot in Duhart-Milon and Lafite-Rothschild. When we know that the maturity is not perfect, we reduce the pumping over and wait to impart concentration through adding the vin de presse (14.5% for Duhart-Milon and 15% Lafite-Rothschild.) This year, it was clear which plots and tanks were designated for the Grand Vin and the Carruades de Lafite, with just one parcel of Merlot from the Plateau de Carruades in the former.”
00
2020
2030 - 2060
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2020
2024 - 2034
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2020
2025 - 2035
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2020
2027 - 2040
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2020
2024 - 2034
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2019
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2019
2025 - 2045
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2019
2025 - 2039
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2019
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2019
2024 - 2044
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2018
2024 - 2038
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2018
2021 - 2032
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2018
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2017
2022 - 2032
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2017
2021 - 2032
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2017
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2017
2019 - 2030
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It is a new look Lafite-Rothschild. Willows still weep where rolling lawn meets tarmac and the vineyard is exactly the same. It is faces that have changed. Eric Kohler replaced Charles Chevalier a few years ago (though it was a pleasure to meet Charles at a soirée, incidentally where they served a brilliant 1998.) Then this year, Saskia de Rothschild replaces her father Baron Eric de Rothschild and Jean-Guillaume Prats departs LVMH to replace the (shy and) retiring, Christophe Salin. No doubt fresh blood will give new impetus to this historic estate that celebrates the 150th anniversary of Baron James de Rothschild’s assiduous purchase. Jean-Guillaume has huge experience not only at LVMH, but of course, at its neighbor across the tributary, Cos d’Estournel (indeed, one wonders if he was considered to replace the departing Aymeric de Gironde.) Saskia brings worldly experience having pursued a successful and peripatetic career as a journalist, during conversation professing a passion for Ethiopia, a country that must seem miles away from the rarefied air of a First Growth. She is young, energetic and with a refreshingly wry sense of humor that will always stand you in good stead.
But it was Eric Kohler that detailed the 2017 growing season in the first or two visits I made to the property. “First of all, the vintage began with a big problem because on 26 and 27 April there was a lot of frost however, it was very different to the one back in 1991. Lafite-Rothschild was only affected in the vines that go into the second wine of Duhart-Milon. [L’Evangile was affected 40% and Rieussec by 15%.] It was close being to a black frost – you might call it a grey frost. So in affected places it was terribly strong and in other places, nothing. After that, the weather was excellent for practically the entire year. May was very nice with a good balance between rain and temperature that made the vines grow rapidly. The flowering was early at the end of May, the mi-floraison around 28/29 May. It was very homogenous and rapid, which was good for production. It was one of the best flowerings I’ve seen. June saw good weather, hot with no rain, and the growth was almost too quick, so that we were almost a fortnight in advance. At the end of June there was 80-100mm of rain over a week and this reduced the temperature. Throughout July, the climate was nice, not particularly hot and a little colder than average. August was the same in the beginning and then we realized that at the end of June we were not as advanced in the [growing] cycle. When we came back from vacation at the end of August and made the first analyses, we saw great potential in terms of tannins and anthocyanins, more or less the same level as 2016. The cool summer was not a problem because it had slowed the advance. Then there was one week of rain from 11 September, 50mm to 80mm, 60mm here at Lafite-Rothschild, so we were anxious. This prompted a more rapid harvest as we saw the risk of botrytis, though optical sorting helped eradicate any rot. The rain stopped on 18 September. We started picking the Cabernet Sauvignon around 19 or 20 September, finishing on 29 September.”
I ask Eric about the vinification of the 2017s. “It was more difficult to get the color but the wine changed a lot during the maceration. This year it was incredibly important. Even the analysis changed in terms of higher IPT. The second positive effect was the vin de presse. This was very useful, especially for the rich and sweet Cabernet Sauvignon. We did a big selection to the point where I tasted like a vin de goute. After that the wine increased throughout December.”
It has been a few years since I have written this but I suspect that Lafite-Rothschild may well be the pick of the First Growth this year. Only by a whisker mind you, but it has a “je ne sais quoi” that it lacked in recent years. It is often a subtle wine out of barrel, rarely one that sets the pulse racing at such an early stage. However, in 2017 I felt there was a little more ambition and refinement, a touch more density towards the finish. Returning to verify my observations, if anything a second showing in mid-April confirmed that this is a really quite fantastic Lafite-Rothschild, a contender for the best wine on the Left Bank.
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2016
2021 - 2036
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2016
2021 - 2036
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2016
2020 - 2030
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2016
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Two thousand sixteen is a stellar vintage across all the properties in the Lafite-Rothschild stable. According to technical director Eric Kohler, most of the hard work was confined to sorting in the vineyards before harvest. Kohler nonchalantly describes his approach to winemaking as "traditional, with nothing particular that that is especially of note." Across the board, the 2016s are deeply colored, yet never heavy. All of the wines have a level of purity in their fruit that I can only describe as extraordinary.
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2015
2018 - 2030
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2015
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2014
2024 - 2028
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2014
2020 - 2029
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Château Lafite-Rothschild's 2014s are powerful and tightly wound, part of which is probably the result of a high %age of Cabernet Sauvignon in the wines. Both wines were a bit more overt from barrel than they are today.
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2014
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Like pretty much all of his peers, Charles Chevalier was faced with a long, drawn out veraison that resulted in an uneven state of maturation that required quite a bit of green-harvesting to remove bunches that had not turned color by mid-August, a phenomenon that was present in the three properties in the Domaines Barons de Rothschild stable (Duhart-Milon, Lafite-Rothschild and L'Evangile). Chevalier compares the 2014s at Lafite to the 2008s, which had similar acidity levels. Malos were done in steel. Blending started in January and was done by March.
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2013
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The 2013s at Lafite are quite attractive. Technical Director Charles Chevallier describes conditions for the Merlots as especially challenging, much more so than at L'Evangile, Lafite's Pomerol estate, so selection was quite easy, as there was little of top quality to work with. Mildew, oidium and botrytis pressure were all rampant. On the Left Bank, the late fall provided very narrow windows for picking. Yields came in at 30 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the more typical 45 or so. Fermentations were gentle, with soft pumpovers. The malos were finished by the end of February and the blends were assembled shortly thereafter.
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2012
2022 - 2030
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2012
2016 - 2022
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2010
2020 - 2030
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2010
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2010
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2009
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2009
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Charles Chevallier, the technical director at Lafite, told me that not much hand-sorting was necessary in 2009 since the quality of the grapes was so high. "I think 2009 is a fantastic year, though I personally don't like to compare it to other past vintages, since each one is so different from the others," he told me. "What I can say is that, putting aside all the analytical data, a great wine is all about harmony and refined texture, two qualities the 2009 Lafite has in spades." He'll get no argument from me!
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2008
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2007
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2007
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My annual visit to Lafite also afforded me my first taste of the 2007 vintage in Pauillac, and the young Lafite gave a good indication of what I would find at many of my subsequent visits in this appellation: a pure and aromatic wine but with moderate density and ripeness-likely suited for mid-term aging rather than the long haul. Director Charles Chevallier describes the vintage as "classical but at the same time fresh and expressive. We did not do a lot of green-harvesting as the crop level was small to begin with, but we did a lot of leaf-pulling to ventilate the fruit."
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2006
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More early tasters were talking up Latour and Mouton than Lafite, which has a tendency to be inscrutable in the early going, but my sample offered one of the purest and most aromatically complex noses of my trip as well as superb clarity and grip on the palate. Director Charles Chevallier told me that the estate had great fruit and strong and noble tannins until the rains came in September, and that it was necessary to pick a bit earlier than was ideal, especially in the young merlot vines. Still, he said, there was less difference between the merlot and cabernet than usual, and he was ultimately happy with the ripeness of the fruit (the cabernet sauvignon had healthy potential alcohol of 12.5%, vs. 13% in 2005). "We had 120 millimeters of rain during the harvest," he told me. "But people forget that it also rained during the harvest of 1996." He offered the opinion that the 2006 is "more powerful and classic than the 2004." Chevallier noted that the estate owns an Entropie machine but says it has only been used in 2002.
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2005
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My annual visit to Lafite also afforded me my first taste of the 2007 vintage in Pauillac, and the young Lafite gave a good indication of what I would find at many of my subsequent visits in this appellation: a pure and aromatic wine but with moderate density and ripeness-likely suited for mid-term aging rather than the long haul. Director Charles Chevallier describes the vintage as "classical but at the same time fresh and expressive. We did not do a lot of green-harvesting as the crop level was small to begin with, but we did a lot of leaf-pulling to ventilate the fruit."
00
2005
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Lafite may be one of the most classic examples of all in the classic Bordeaux vintage of 2005-which is to say that the young sample I tasted was understated and refined but austere and difficult to judge, as young Lafite often is. The property-wide yield was just 40 hectoliters per hectare, down 20% from normal, and I was told that it was especially easy to make the selection for the grand vin in '05, which actually turned out to be 40% less than the quantity produced in an average year.
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2004
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More early tasters were talking up Latour and Mouton than Lafite, which has a tendency to be inscrutable in the early going, but my sample offered one of the purest and most aromatically complex noses of my trip as well as superb clarity and grip on the palate. Director Charles Chevallier told me that the estate had great fruit and strong and noble tannins until the rains came in September, and that it was necessary to pick a bit earlier than was ideal, especially in the young merlot vines. Still, he said, there was less difference between the merlot and cabernet than usual, and he was ultimately happy with the ripeness of the fruit (the cabernet sauvignon had healthy potential alcohol of 12.5%, vs. 13% in 2005). "We had 120 millimeters of rain during the harvest," he told me. "But people forget that it also rained during the harvest of 1996." He offered the opinion that the 2006 is "more powerful and classic than the 2004." Chevallier noted that the estate owns an Entropie machine but says it has only been used in 2002.
00
2004
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Director Charles Chevallier describes 2004 as a classic, fresh Lafite that will be accessible young but also capable of aging. "Even the merlot-rich wines in 2004 taste and smell like cabernet," he noted, "with their floral character, sound acidity and flavor definition." Chevallier compares the 2004 Lafite to the 2002, which had a slightly higher indice de polyphenols totaux (70, compared to 68 in 2004), and expressed the opinion that the new wine is more complex than the 2001. This estate did a good bit of green harvesting, as well as some additional crop-thinning after the August vacation, and still produced 55 hectoliters per hectare.
00
2003
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Lafite may be one of the most classic examples of all in the classic Bordeaux vintage of 2005-which is to say that the young sample I tasted was understated and refined but austere and difficult to judge, as young Lafite often is. The property-wide yield was just 40 hectoliters per hectare, down 20% from normal, and I was told that it was especially easy to make the selection for the grand vin in '05, which actually turned out to be 40% less than the quantity produced in an average year.
00
2003
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The pH of the 2003 Lafite is 3.92, which may be the highest ever for this chateau. The yield was about 35 hectoliters per hectare. The estate eliminated the cooked and pruney fruit, then did its normal gentle extraction. For the first time since 1999, Lafite included some petit verdot in the blend; this fruit came in at a freakishly high 15% potential alcohol.
00
2002
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Director Charles Chevallier describes 2004 as a classic, fresh Lafite that will be accessible young but also capable of aging. "Even the merlot-rich wines in 2004 taste and smell like cabernet," he noted, "with their floral character, sound acidity and flavor definition." Chevallier compares the 2004 Lafite to the 2002, which had a slightly higher indice de polyphenols totaux (70, compared to 68 in 2004), and expressed the opinion that the new wine is more complex than the 2001. This estate did a good bit of green harvesting, as well as some additional crop-thinning after the August vacation, and still produced 55 hectoliters per hectare.
00
2002
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2001
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The pH of the 2003 Lafite is 3.92, which may be the highest ever for this chateau. The yield was about 35 hectoliters per hectare. The estate eliminated the cooked and pruney fruit, then did its normal gentle extraction. For the first time since 1999, Lafite included some petit verdot in the blend; this fruit came in at a freakishly high 15% potential alcohol.
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2001
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Director Charles Chevallier was one of a minority of Bordeaux insiders who told me that the grapes were smaller and thicker-skinned in 2001 than in 2000. He describes the estate's grand vin as a "classic Medoc wine, not impressive on entry today, but with very expressive, pure fruit."
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2000
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"The structure of '96 with the aromatic qualities and perfume of '99," says enologist Christophe Conge of the 2000 Lafite. "Polyphenols were at the level of '96, but there more flesh and the wine is less rigorous. And the skins were riper than those of '98," Conge added. "The wine seemed too tannic at the beginning, but now the tannins are more enrobed." This remarkably pure, penetrating wine is like an essence of 2000 cabernet sauvignon, hardly surprising as it includes only 7% merlot.
00
1999
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"The quality of the '99 crop was due to the prolonged warm spell in August and early September; then it rained almost every day during the harvest," explained director Charles Chevallier. "We used 420 pickers rather than the normal 300 and picked in just ten days; there was no time for dilution to occur." Chevallier describes the '99 as a bit less dense than the estate '98, but "more round, floral and open." Still, it has terrific intensity and grip for the vintage and is an early candidate for the top wine of the Medoc in '99.
00
1998
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"The structure of '96 with the aromatic qualities and perfume of '99," says enologist Christophe Conge of the 2000 Lafite. "Polyphenols were at the level of '96, but there more flesh and the wine is less rigorous. And the skins were riper than those of '98," Conge added. "The wine seemed too tannic at the beginning, but now the tannins are more enrobed." This remarkably pure, penetrating wine is like an essence of 2000 cabernet sauvignon, hardly surprising as it includes only 7% merlot.
00
1998
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Very fine August and early September weather ensured ripe grapes rich in tannins, explained director Charles Chevallier, but harvest-time rain necessitated very quick picking. Using extra pickers, Lafite finished the harvest in 13 days (a full three weeks is more normal here). Selection for the grand vin was strict; and most of the first juice was declassified. Still, notes Chevallier, extraction was easy and natural: the maceration lasted three weeks, with less remontage than usual, and there was no need to force anything. One plus in '98 was the more uniform ripening of fruit compared to the previous year.
00
1997
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The young '97 Lafite has elicited a mixed response in early tastings in Bordeaux, as this often-difficult wine typically does. One reason it can be a hard wine to assess in large comparative tastings, notes co-director Eric Kohler, is that "the toast is so light that you don't have vanilla and chocolate notes, flavors that so many early tasters like." I found the '97 Lafite less obviously ripe than the very strong wines produced here in '96 and '95, but it showed good density, thoroughly seductive flavor and excellent length, and appeared to be one of the handful of left-bank superstars from this vintage.
00
1995
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Cabernet franc rarely ripens on these gravelly soils, but in '95 reached 12% potential alcohol, and the 7% cabernet franc component in the grand vin has added both finesse and a floral perfume. The '95 Lafite makes the '94 seem oaky in comparison. Incidentally, the '94 Lafite is 99% cabernet sauvignon and 1% petit verdot just like the '61. But don't get too excited yet.
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1955
2019 - 2021
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