2017 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
White
59% Sémillon, 41% Sauvignon Blanc (2024 vintage)
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2022 - 2029
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2023 - 2050
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Jean-Philippe Delmas commented: "The vines started [their growth cycle] in mid-March and we had a very warm and dry April causing acceleration in growth. The flowering, véraison and so forth were all two weeks in advance. We started the harvest quite early on 21 August for the whites. Because of the rain in the second week of September, 70mm from 8 to 17 September to be exact, it was the longest harvest for the reds, lasting from 31 August to 29 September, the Cabernet Sauvignon picked from 21 September. The rain came at a bad moment for the Cabernet Franc and so we put in garbage. Overall we had 20% less rain than usual and during July and August, 50% less. The huge storm in June gave us reserves for the summer. We had low levels of sun in July with few days without cloud.”
Tasting through the range, surely the only one that spans Bordeaux AC to First Growth, is always a fascinating task: comparing the siblings of La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion, switching over from red to white, Left Bank to Right Bank (denied this year as Quintus was only being shown at the property.) This year I noted a wider gap between the Deuxième and Grand Vins. Between La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion? For me, the latter ahead by a nose thanks to its fruit intensity and length, although they share a sense of symmetry and precision, partly enhanced by slightly lower alcohol levels than previous years. With regard to the whites, allow me to stir the pot for a moment, I feel that these are often over-rated during en primeur. I love these wines. I have drunk many vintages in bottle, young and old, sight and crucially, blind. I just do not think they merit some of the ludicrously high scores I see elsewhere. With some exceptions, for example the 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc, they do achieve a level equal to a top German Riesling or white Burgundy, but quality-wise they usually rank a rung below. The 2017 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc and Haut-Brion Blanc are truly excellent. I am just explaining why I will not go overboard with my score, though I concur with Jean-Philippe Delmas that they may well be superior than their respective previous two vintages due to their concentration and freshness.
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