2001 La Conseillante
France
Pomerol
Bordeaux
Red
87% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2022 - 2055
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I first heard about The Sportsman not long after it opened from a local friend, and it had only taken a couple of decades to visit. Thankfully, it did not disappoint. This is cooking where the chef wisely takes a back seat and allows the ingredients do all the talking.
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2018 - 2033
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Earlier this year, Managing Director Jean-Valmy Nicolas invited me to the first-floor tasting room to taste through a comprehensive line-up of both La Conseillante and their second wine, Duo du Conseillante. These notes are augmented by those taken at recent private tastings, including an excellent soirée at “Ten Trinity” organized by Omar Kahn for his “International Business and Wine” series of dinners in March. I have also included some notes taken from my Pomerol tome.
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On my visit to La Conseillante this spring, I tasted the three vintages that were made by M. de Lamy, who has since returned to his family's domain in Lezignan-Corbieres. According to new director Jean-Michel Laporte, Lamy initiated a cold maceration here, a step that brought more fruit and a suppler structure to the last three vintages. At La Conseillante, said Laporte, a short pruning is the most effective technique to control crop levels, but two green harvests are also routinely carried out, even in vintage 2003. The estate also routinely does two effeuillages, though in the broiling summer of 2003, happily, the second leaf-pulling was skipped. The 50% of the estate on the Pomerol side of the road is planted on clay, notes Laporte; La Conseillante's acreage closer to Cheval Blanc, which includes its cabernet franc, is on more gravelly soil, with clay underneath. "La Conseillante is often tricky to taste from barrel early on," says Laporte. "Then it develops so quickly that you think it's getting old, and then it gets fresh again," he went on. "There are always a lot of peaks and valleys." The estate harvested very early in 2003, bringing in the entire crop during the first seven days of September. A sorting table was used to eliminate the grapes that had been cooked by the sun.
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