2003 L'Eglise-Clinet
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2019 - 2030
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Denis Durantou harvested in 2005 before the pH mounted past 3.7, bringing in his merlot on September 12 and 13. I tasted two samples of this superb 2005 but should note that both were taken from Darnajou barrels, which account for about 80% of the blend. Durantou, who is as likely to drink old Burgundy as old Bordeaux, told me he works his merlot like pinot noir.
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Denis Durantou still ages his wine in about two-thirds Darnajou barrels, as he likes the way they "bring up the caramel side" of his merlot. In recent years, he has become enamored as well with Berthomieu's Hermitage barrel, which he feels reinforces the spicy, floral side of his wine. Durantou picked his merlot during the last few days of September and first few days of October, then waited until October 10 to attack the cabernet franc. His L'Eglise-Clinet has been on a roll in recent vintages.
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I got the impression that Denis Durantou didn't much like his 2003 L'Eglise-Clinet at the outset but was feeling a little better about the wine by early April. Durantou picked extremely early, on September 3 and 5, bringing in just 32 hectoliters per hectare, which he described as a normal crop load. "With my low yields, I can get ripe skins early, without losing acidity and freshness," he told me. According to Durantou, only clay soils retained enough humidity to prevent grapes from losing all their moisture and withering. "There's nothing vegetal about the 2003 fruit here," he went on. "And the grilled note is from the vintage, not the oak." The young 2003 has sound acid structure and a low-for-the-vintage pH of 3.65. "The polyphenol level was high in 2003, but was even higher in 2000 at the beginning," he said. "But 2000 has almost too much of everything, and great sucrosite The 2003 is a less obvious wine that merits reflection."
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