1998 L'Eglise-Clinet
France
Pomerol
Bordeaux
Red
90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
00
2021 - 2050
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2019 - 2050
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Denis Durantou describes 2000 as "an outstanding vintage for the great Pomerols," but cautioned that the sprays used to fend off mildew blocked the maturity of the fruit in a lot of vineyards in the appellation, and had a tendency to give vegetal flavors. The '00 L'Eglise-Clinet has an especially wide range of aromas, and Durantou feels he may have picked a bit later than ideal. In '98, though, "I picked at the perfect time, just before getting surmaturite." The '99 was being prepared for the bottling when I stopped by for my annual visit.
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Despite the huge flowering in '99, Denis Durantou will bottle less L'Eglise-Clinet than in '98 due to severe crop-reduction (Durantou removed fruit until literally the day before the harvest began) and strict selection. "We had one or two heat spells in '99," noted Durantou, "but it was not a particularly hot summer. The molecules responsible for green tastes dissipated. There may be some vegetal notes of green tea, tobacco or blackcurrant, but there are no herbaceous elements in the wine. "Durantou did less chaptalization of the cabernet franc in '99 and brought in merlot in the 13.5%-14% range. He picked the merlot early "because I didn't want to make port. I always pick fresh, crispy berries." This is a wine of sheer material rather than winemaking razzmatazz: "no concentrating device, no saignee, no malolactic fermentation in oak." Still, Durantou gets plenty of mileage from his use of all Darnajou barrels: "I belong to the butter and caramel family of Darnajou, not the overroasted coffee and burnt rubber family of Seguin-Moreau."
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Denis Durantou brought in completely ripe merlot under ideal conditions between September 21 and 26. Grape sugars in his various plots ranged from 13% to 13.7%; the grapes were very small, and no chaptalization was needed. The pH of the finished wine will be in the 3.7 range-"perfect for us," according to Durantou. Too much merlot picked after the October 1 rain suffered from plunging acidity, said Durantou, adding that the skins became overripe and soft and the fruit developed vegetal aromas. The '98 L'Eglise-Clinet, made in 80% new barrels, is potentially the finest, most complete wine made at this estate since 1985 and is an early candidate for wine of the vintage. It offers an exhilarating range of aromas, and appears to have the vibrancy and structure to develop slowly and spectacularly in bottle.
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