2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken

Although the much-awaited sale of this estate finally took place in 2010, Bernd Philippi remains the man at the helm here. Dominik Sona has now been engaged as the new winemaker, but both he and the new owner are intent on preserving the house style. As the wines here are always brought to market late, I have not yet tasted the 2009s. In spite of the market's keen interest in his current releases, Bernd Philippi still believes that 2007 was the best vintage of his career. Try to find the Auslese R and RR when they become available over the coming years. They may well one day become collectors' items like the Burgundies of the late Henri Jayer. Also recommended: 2008 Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86).

This estate has been on the verge of being sold for some time now. In fact, I wrote erroneously last year that it had been, because Bernd Philippi told me that the transaction would take place "by the end of the month." Even now, rumors have it that there are buyers in waiting. In the meantime, the owner is just as likely to be found in Portugal or South Africa , where he also makes wine, as in the Pfalz. But it is clear that his heart still beats faster when he is "at home." After stunningly dense 2007s, which he claims are the finest dry rieslings he has ever made, the 2008s are more intricate, almost delicate for the style of this estate. Also recommended: 2008 Kallstadter Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken "R" (92), 2007 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese Trocken "RR" (93).