2004 Riesling Westhofener Morstein Grosses Gewächs
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Klaus-Peter Keller plays at the top of the league in almost every category of wine he makes-as did his father before him.The key this year, he told me, was having thick berry skins to prevent rot.Indeed, 2004 was one of the latest harvests in the history of this estate, and he often allowed the grapes to hang on the vines for as long as 150 days before picking.That this was the right choice is well documented below.The sweet wines and stickies here have always been luscious, but the dry rieslings are now equally stunning and serious, due in part to the cask aging that has added complexity to their style (previously they were made in stainless steel, in a squeaky-clean style).I tasted 24 wines here and rated 17 of them as outstanding.This is, without a doubt, the finest collection of wines produced anywhere in Germany in 2004, and even the simple wines make excellent drinking.(Petit Pois Inc., Moorestown, NJ; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA) Also recommended: 2004 Silvaner Trocken (85), 2004 Riesling Trocken von der Fels (87), 2004 Silvaner "S" (90), 2004 Weisser Burgunder "S" (90), 2004 Grauer Burgunder "S" (91).
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