2019 Fleurfontein
$33 (2013)
South Africa
Stellenbosch
White
Sauvignon Blanc (2023 vintage)
00
2019
2022 - 2045
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Winemaker Alex Starey has steered this Stellenbosch producer into the top league in recent years. It was actually Robert Parker who called me out of the blue on my maiden trip to the Cape, suggesting that I make a beeline for their winery in the picturesque Blaauwklippen Valley. During our Zoom conversation, Starey told me how the estate is now selling less fruit to growers because it is no longer profitable. Their range increased a little with the introduction of the single-vineyard Cabernet Franc and separate bottlings for Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Starey foresees no additional cuvées or second labels, being content to leave things as they are and make tweaks where necessary. “We are re-modeling an Estate Reserve from 2019 to become a blend that personifies Keermont, with a different direction, away from a typical Bordeaux blend, with a higher proportion of Syrah and Cabernet Franc. It’s more the type of wine I like to make and drink, a bit more unique. In the vineyard we are moving toward a more sustainable approach, which is the future. The 2016 vintage was quite a tough one, very dry, and the vineyards suffered and produced a small crop. But in those tough vintages I often make the wines that I really like, more subtle and nuanced, perhaps earlier-drinking.” These latest releases, which come onto the market with a bit of bottle age, focused on the 2016 and 2017 vintages, represent some of the best I tasted from Keermont thus far. His 2016s were all matured for 20 months in seasoned 225-liter oak with no adjustments, bottled unfiltered. As Starey mentioned, they are nuanced and pretty. The sweet 2019 Fleurfontein comes from a single parcel of Sauvignon Blanc located next to a spring (hence the name that translates as “flower fountain”). The wine is made by desiccation of stems, berries soaked overnight on the skins to extract the sugar and matured in mainly new barrels for around 18 months. It ranks among the very best sweet wines that I have encountered from the Cape.