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This tasting at Kapcsándy was one of the highlights of my October trip. Kapcsándy's 2015s possess off the charts richness and intensity. Yields are down significantly because of the poor flowering and severe selection at harvest. The wines I tasted from barrel were extremely raw, but with plenty of underlying potential. The 2015s are wines that will likely appeal most to readers who enjoy opulent, flamboyant Napa Valley wines. At the same time, the 2015s here are less showy than they are at many other properties. That may be a good thing over the long term. As good as the 2015s are, I find more subtlety and class in the 2014s. Over the last year, the 2014s have blossomed into extraordinary wines. Louis Kapcsándy adds that extractions were gentler in 2014 than they were in 2013, while macerations were shorter. I also had a chance to revisit the 2013s. Those wines are every bit as remarkable as they have always been. Lou and Louis Kapcsándy have always been hands-on owners. For that reason, I was not at all surprised to see them take on what appears to be a more active role following the untimely passing of winemaker Denis Malbec. Tony Arcudi has joined Kapcsándy as a consultant, but my impression is that the Kapcsándys will be more directly responsible for the wines than was the case some years ago.
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2023 - 2038
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Kapcsándy moves from strength to strength with these current and upcoming releases. The 2012s continue to blossom in bottle, even though this is the lightest-bodied and most accessible vintage of the 2012-2013-2014 trio here. Things get more serious with the 2013s, wines that confirm the towering presence and profoundness they showed when I first tasted them in Spring 2014. And then there are the 2014s, which might turn out to be the most precise wines of the bunch. Lou Kapcsándy puts the current set of vintages in perspective, commenting that at his State Lane Vineyard, he saw 11 days with temperatures over 100 degrees in 2013. That number crept up to 12 in 2014, although there were no back-to-back days with those temperatures. In 2015, though, the vineyard saw 26 days with temperatures in excess of 100 degrees, including a stretch of 5 consecutive days at those levels. Winemaker Denis Malbec adds that lengthened macerations a touch in 2013 to soften the tannins and shortened time on the skins in 2014, which is the opposite of what most winemakers did. Lou Kapcsándy, his son Louis, and winemaker Denis Malbec offer more context in this short video, which I shot on the last day of the 2015 harvest.
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2018 - 2038
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"If you can't make a great wine in 2012, you should get another job," Lou Kapcsandy told me matter-of-factly towards the end of the harvest that year. Well, the 2012s have indeed turned out beautifully here. But the 2013s are even better. The truth is the entire lineup is superb this year, starting with the dry Furmint all the way to the sweet Vino del Sol. The 2012 reds are supple and gracious, while the 2013s show the darker fruit and greater structure that is typical of the vintage. All the wines are made from Kapcsandy's State Lane vineyard in Yountville, one of Napa Valley's most historic sites.
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