2008 Roberta's Reserve
United States
Yountville
Napa
Red
Bordeaux Blend
00
2020 - 2036
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2020 - 2036
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As the challenges of difficult growing seasons fade with time, two things happen. First, in the memory of winemakers, rain events magically become less extreme: the actual torrential rainfall that plagued a harvest shrinks to moderate precipitation and eventually to a vague recollection of moisture. Freakishly cool or brutally hot harvest weather or damaging hail storms are virtually forgotten, as the body has a short memory for pain. At the same time, as the wines themselves mature and are transformed, they reveal themselves to be less extreme after all, until at some point it can be next to impossible to find the insanity of the vintage in the bottle. I’ve seen these patterns play out again and again in temperate wine-growing areas like Bordeaux, Burgundy and northern Italy—and even in normally hot, bone-dry growing regions. Two thousand eight was such a year for California’s North Coast.
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Much as I dislike raving about wines that cost an arm and two legs, it''s hard to avoid the conclusion that the Kapcsandys'' Roberta''s Reserve has rapidly become one of the world''s greatest merlots not made on the Pomerol plateau. During the course of my annual visit to this estate on the east side of Yountville (the Kapcsandys replanted the famous old State Lane Vineyard a year after they purchased the property in 2000), the Roberta''s and the Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin stood out as some of the stars of both 2009 and 2008. These are classically dry and broad wines in a rather French style (Denis Malbec, who virtually grew up at Chateau Latour, has been consulting winemaker here since 2007). But although they really call for extended aging, they also gained dramatically in sweetness in just the time I had them in my glass. One of the keys to the very high quality here is a willingness to bottle only the very best material each vintage. According to Lou Kapcsandy Sr., 62% of total production in 2009 went into the estate''s Endre bottling.'
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