2021 Zierfandler-Rotgipfler Gumpoldskirchen

Johannes Gebeshuber founded the eponymous estate in 1998 when he and his then-wife inherited vineyards in Gumpoldskirchen. While he had not grown up with wine, his wife Johanna (née Bruckberger) had. They bought the former headquarters of the local co-operative winery in Gumpoldskirchen, including the historic cellar. The former marketer had no formal training in wine but made his first wine in 1998 from 7 hectares of vines. In 2006, the estate became certified organic, started conversion to biodynamic farming in 2017 and became certified in 2020. In the same year, Gebeshuber’s son Paul joined the estate after attending the viticultural college in Krems and training in Burgenland and Steiermark. Now, Paul Gebeshuber looks after vineyards and cellar together with his father. All wines are fermented spontaneously and aged both in steel and barrel. The sheer concentration and expressiveness of both Rotgipfler and Zierfandler are the true hallmarks of the house. I tasted a set of current releases ranging from 2019 to 2022.