2023 Morgon Côte du Py

Jean-Marc Burgaud is rightly seen as one of the leading winemakers in Beaujolais. The price for even his top cuvées is a pittance compared to the Côte d’Or, which is partly why quality is not more broadly recognised. Moreover, as I can vouchsafe from first-hand experience, these wines have an unerring ability to age. Readers should peruse previous Beaujolais reports for background details on Burgaud’s holdings and tenets. There are two major positive changes at this address. Firstly, Burgaud is constructing a new winery that will afford much more space than his current facility. Secondly, son-in-law Quentin Uzureau is taking on an increasing role in the winery’s daily operations. When we met last year, Uzureau confessed his nerves handling the tractor through the vines. Burgaud confirmed that since then, Uzureau has become a very able driver.

On this occasion, I tasted the 2023s in bottle and 2024s from barrel. “I love the 2023 style,” Burgaud tells me. “I decided to pick four days earlier than planned due to the heatwave. But it was not as easy in 2024.” Burgaud’s 2023s are must-haves for any “Bojo” aficionado. This is Gamay at its purest and most terroir-specific. The wines are less opulent than their 2022 counterparts but may well display more complexity and personality. The top cuvées in Côte du Py, including the Javernières and Cuvée James bottlings, are both exceptional, as are the Grand Cras (which will be renamed La Roche starting with the 2024 vintage) and the Corcelette. Did I mention prices? I did. Good.

Jean-Marc Burgaud was out in the Far East promoting his wines with his importer when I dropped in at his winery in Morgon, but I enjoyed the company of his wife, Christine, and son-in-law, Quentin, the latter now working at the estate. He speaks better English than most Englishmen I know, having grown up on the other side of La Manche. At the moment, Jean-Marc assigns Quentin various tasks around the Domaine. Quentin recently got accustomed to driving a tractor in the vineyard, not for the faint-hearted, since he confessed that he often feels it’s about to tip over. This is an exemplary producer at the top of the tree. Tasting through Burgaud’s 2022s from bottle and 2023s from barrel (picked from September 9), there is a sense of sophistication running through nearly every cuvée. Burgaud is a master working in the Côte du Py who can occasionally evoke almost Pinot-like characteristics.