2007 Extra-Brut Millesime Grand Cru
$430 (2009)
France
Avize, Cramant
Champagne
Sparkling White
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir (2010 vintage)
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2007
2020 - 2037
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This is a positively stunning set of wines from Anselme and Guillaume Selosse. I have a hard time thinking about another tasting here in which so many wines were at such a stratospheric level. For starters, the Initiale, Version Originale (V.O.) and Rosé are all elevated by the quality of the 2013 vintage on which they are based. The 2012 lieux-dits capture all of the intensity and richness of the year, while the 2007 Vintage marks a transition to Guillaume Selosse’s stewardship. I can’t say much except to reiterate just how compelling and utterly singular these Champagnes are.
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2010
2024 - 2034
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I am not sure there is much more to say about Selosse at this point. The wines are, quite simply, reference points. I will add, though, they really benefit from cellaring. Whereas so many grower Champagnes, especially those with a low dosage, improve for only a few years post-disgorgement, the Selosse Champagnes need that time to really come together. I also advise giving the wines a good bit of air. I don’t love decanting for Champagne, but opening these bottles a few hours ahead is advisable, if possible. I was reminded of that at one of our recent events where the wines were most glorious towards the end of the evening.
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2009
2022 - 2034
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I was blown away by these new releases from Anselme and Guillaume Selosse. The idea that wines show better when tasted at the domaine is simply not true. In fact, having an opportunity to follow these wines at my home in New York, far away from the bucolic hills of Avize and the surrounding towns of the Côte des Blancs, was such an enlightening experience, as I was able to see how the wines develop over time. The Initial, always the first wine in a tasting at Selosse, is just magnificent. It gets better from there, culminating with a collection of lieux-dits that are all truly epic. Readers will note that the current release of the Vintage Champagne is 2009 instead of 2008. Even after so many years, these remain some of the most unique and viscerally thrilling wines anywhere in the world.
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2008
2026 - 2038
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Once again, I missed my Champagne trip this past March because of the pandemic. That makes it two years in a row I have not been to Champagne, the first time that has happened in well over a decade. I tasted all the new Selosse releases in New York, which gave me chance to follow the wines over more time than is possible during a visit to the domaine, one of the positive aspects of our current situation. The range is magnificent from top to bottom. In particular, readers will want to do whatever they can to find a few bottles of the 2008, as it is truly spectacular. The Côte Faron is also a stand-out, but the reality is all of these new releases will thrill Selosse fans.
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2006
2021 - 2036
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There is quite a bit going on at Selosse these days. The estate is in the middle of a generational transition that has been underway for some time. This set of new releases includes the 2006 Millesime, which is the last vintage Champagne made entirely by Anselme Selosse. From 1975 to 2006, the Millesime has been 100% Chardonnay, a blend of equal parts Chantereines and Malandries du Midi. Beginning in 2007, the vintage Champagne is made by Guillaume Selosse, who has decided to reinterpret the wine by using both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay across a number of the family’s parcels. Needless to say, it will be fascinating to watch where things go in the coming years. The current releases also include the six lieu-dits, this year based on 2011. I find the Chardonnay wines a bit more complete and interesting than the Pinots. Guillaume Selosse told me sugars were rising rapidly towards the end of the season, so the Pinots were picked on the early side. That is in relative terms, of course. Despite the very warm season, the Selosses started harvesting at 110 days after flowering, longer than the classic 100 days that is often believed to be the period of time needed for grapes to reach optimal ripeness.
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2005
2017 - 2030
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Generational transition appears to be alive and well at Selosse, where Guillaume Selosse is increasingly involved in the family business. I have written about these Champagnes extensively in the past. There is not much else left to say, except for that the wines remain reference points for readers who want to understand the spirit of artisan Champagne at its very best.
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2005
2017 - 2030
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Anselme Selosse’s wines are among the most coveted bottles in Champagne. In recent years, Selosse’s lieu-dit Champagnes have ascended into the realm of the nearly unobtainable because of their tiny production. Two of the lieux-dits are sold only as part of the 300 or so boxed sets that are released each year, which makes tasting all six Champagnes together virtually impossible. This unforgettable dinner featured the entire collection of lieux-dits, along with a number of Selosse classics.
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2005
2016 - 2030
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There are plenty of highlights in these wines from Anselme and Guillaume Selosse. One of the small changes this year is that the V.O. is now being released with the same base vintage (in this case 2009) as the Initial rather than a year apart, as had been the case up until this year, a decision the Selosses made to simplify marketing. Two thousand nine is also the base vintage for the new lieu-dits. As one might expect, those wines are all exuberant and voluptuous, with the best of the vintage and the Selosse style on full display. I found two wines (the Initial and the Rosé) with volatile acidities that are at the limit of what most tasters would find noticeable. Most of these wines were disgorged just a few months before I tasted them. It will be interesting to see if more time in bottle helps the Initial and the Rosé find the balance that the best of these wines all offer.
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2005
2015 - 2030
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Selosse fans have a lot to look forward to when the new lieu-dit Champagnes are released later this year, as the base vintage for the 2015 disgorgements is 2008 and the wines are shaping up to be superb. My spring visit is a good time to go through the vins clairs, but less ideal for tasting wines in bottle, as disgorgements are quite recent. What follows is a selection of the new and upcoming releases that I was able to taste at the domaine. Our fall Champagne article will include a complete report on the Selosse Champagnes.
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2002
2013 - 2027
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Despite all of the acclaim and recognition Anselme Selosse has received over the years, he continues to push the envelope of what Champagne is and can be. The new lieu-dit Champagnes, which now encompass six different bottlings – all of them multi-vintage blends – are off the charts, but frankly, so are the rest of the wines. Readers who want to learn more about Selosse might want to take a look at my recent videos on our site. Selosse fans might also want to consider a stay at Les Avizés, the hotel Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne recently opened in Avize, which is probably the best way to visit this iconic producer.
00
1999
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This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.
00
1990
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
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