2015 Brunello di Montalcino

Like very few other Montalcino estates, Il Poggione is able to combine quantity with quality (600 hectares of which 140 are planted to vines; 200,000 bottles of Brunello a year, but the estate actually makes over 600,000 bottles of wine a year). Il Poggione owns the Paganelli vineyard (from where the estate Brunello Riserva I Paganelli is made), which is one of the oldest vineyards of Sangiovese in Montalcino. Technical director Alessandro Bindocci points out that the entire vineyard was planted in 1964, so unlike other estates that might boast a few rows of very old vines, at 12 hectares, the Paganelli vineyard is most likely Montalcino’s single largest vineyard of old vines. In 1999, the estate abandoned the use of Slavonian oak and moved to French oak of 30-50hL as their casks of choice. For those who might not be aware, I point out that il Poggione also makes a delicious 100% Sangiovese Rosato (called Sbrancato) and a delightful Moscadello di Montalcino. This year’s releases are especially strong.

With over 300 acres planted to vine, Il Poggione remains one of Montalcino’s largest producers of Brunello, and yet they continue to maintain a level of quality that is unparalleled through much of the region. Located in the warm, yet well-ventilated micro-climate of Sant'Angelo in Colle, in the southeast of Montalcino, Il Poggione Brunello displays elegance, depth, classic structure and Sangiovese purity - all while remaining a remarkable value. In the winery, Fabrizio Bindocci adheres to a progressive approach, blending tradition with innovation. His practice of completing fermentation using submerged-cap, is something you’d expect to see more in Barolo than Montalcino. From there the Brunello is refined for three years in 30-50-hectoliter casks (all neutral wood, of course) before resting in bottle one year prior to release. Finding another Brunello in this price-point that is as long-lived, true to place and coloring within classic lines, isn’t easy.