2008 Brunello di Montalcino

Il Poggione continues to impress for an ability to marry exceptional quality with scale and affordability, making these some of the most consumer friendly wines on the planet. Today Il Poggione makes about 200,000 bottles of Brunello and another 180,000 of Rosso, quantities that are simply unbelievable at this level. This year, the estate has a new wine, a sort of 'super-Rosso' that is made in a bigger style than the straight Rosso. Call me nostalgic, but I prefer the regular bottling. One of the other changes here, is that Il Poggione has decided to bottle their Riserva more selectively, which frankly I think is a shame, but also highlights the reality of a Brunello market that is either scorching hot or dead in the water, with no middle ground. The estate struggled to sell their 2003 Riserva through even though it was and remains a magnificent wine because of the perceived poor quality of the vintage, so in the future we will see Riservas only in the very best years. Of course, that does benefit the consumer in that the regular bottling will be clearly strengthened in vintages in which there is no Riserva, 2008 being a great example of that.

Long time winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci describes 2008 as a challenging year. The winter saw quite a bit of rain. Flowering was normal, but it was followed by a wet July. Like most of their neighbors, Il Poggione suffered the devastating effects of the August 15 hailstorm that took with it 50% of the production. Proprietor Leopoldo Franceschi happened to be at the estate to celebrate the national holiday, but was so traumatized by the events he vowed never again to set foot on his property on August 15th! When Franceschi has more time to reflect on the quality of his wine, he may change his mind. Longtime winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his son, Alessandro, decided not to bottle their Riserva in 2008, so all of the juice went into the straight Brunello bottling, which is easily one of the wines of the vintage. The next Riserva from Il Poggione will be the 2010. As has long been the custom here, the Brunelli are fermented in stainless steel, with natural yeasts. The malos also occur naturally, after which the wines are moved into 33 and 50-hectoliter French oak casks. The Poggione Brunellos, especially the straight bottling, remain among the very best values in cellar worthy wine anywhere in the world.