2016 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie
$300 (2015)
Italy
North East, Montalcino
Tuscany
Red
Sangiovese (2020 vintage)
00
2016
2026 - 2040
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“Always traditional, but different hands, different wines.” This quote from Alessandro Mori stuck with me while tasting through the new releases of Il Marroneto. It was a comment Mori made as he expressed the respect that he has for many of his famous neighbors, all on the north side of the Montalcino hill. For Mori, a producer who is traditional in every way, his theory is to allow the vineyard to fully express itself from vintage to vintage, but that the imprint of the winemaker is paramount. In the case of Il Marroneto, this is a gentle and fully natural approach, but it is certainly not hands-off.
Through the late 1980s and into the 1990s, Mori watched the entire way of thinking in Montalcino change to appeal to the consumers and wine writers of the time. While other producers sought to create wines of power with darker colors, riper fruit and a sheen of oak, he decided to go in a completely opposite direction. This was how the Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie came into being. It’s a wine that unapologetically struts its Northern Montalcino terroir, produced from a selection made within its namesake vineyard, and through much slower processes within the winery. While Mori looks for the beauty of Sangiovese within his Brunello, his Madonna delle Grazie is about its complexity. It’s funny to think that when it was first produced, Madonna delle Grazie wasn’t met with high acclaim; yet today, it’s one of the top wines vintage after vintage - as it is again in 2016.
The good news is that you don’t need to buy up to the Madonna delle Grazie to understand the spellbinding and whimsical styles of this house because the Brunello di Montalcino alone is a wine that communicates its importance and longevity but also a purity of fruit and sheer drinkability, which is enthralling.
00
2020
2028 - 2042
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Whereas most wines from Montalcino are elegant, soft and earlier-drinking in 2020, at Il Marroneto, they are classic to the core, which is completely atypical of the vintage. There will be a 2020 Riserva—Il Marronetto's first since 2013, chosen from one very distinct barrel in the cellar. Production will total only 1,000 magnums. The 2020 Brunello and 2020 Madonna delle Grazie are simply spellbinding. Frankly, it's difficult to consider them alongside what I've tasted from the 2020 vintage. They are aromatically stunning and packed full of depth and concentration but also energetic and refined. Iacopo Mori mentioned that the wines are incredibly high in dry extract, yet the acidity holds them together. He went on to explain that due to the lockdown, no airplanes were flying overhead, no cars were driving nearby, and there was very minimal pollution. The team was able to focus all of their energy on the vineyards. Asked about the level of depth they achieved in the wines, Mori went into detail about the harvest. Considering the higher elevations at Il Marronetto and its sandy soils, they were able to wait until after the September rains, when many producers had already picked their fruit, resulting in perfectly ripe tannins. These wines are not to be missed.
00
2019
2026 - 2044
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Alessandro Mori of Il Marroneto has gone from strength to strength from vintage to vintage. Not only did 2016 and 2019 reach great heights, but Mori was able to cull magic from the difficult 2017 and 2018 vintages. The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio is a racy and refined wine that provides both immediate satisfaction and balance for the cellar. The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Selezione Iacopo, a selection made by Mori’s son from his Brunello barrels, is once again a gorgeous interpretation of house style and place. This is a wolf in sheep's clothing, boasting the Rosso name while overdelivering in every way. As for the 2019 Brunello, the most difficult thing will be to keep our hands off of it long enough to give it the time it needs to mature. Very much in Il Marroneto style, this wine is already showing beautifully with vividly ripe fruits and sweet spices, all on a framework of pure elegance. For all of its upfront appeal, waiting is absolutely recommended. The 2019 Madonna delle Grazie remains a wine of meditation, yet with an energy about it that is seldom seen. I’ve tasted this from cask multiple times and bottle in Italy and the United States. The last bottle was left open for two days and only got better. The only thing that surpassed it was the 2016 that I revisited recently, a wine that flirts with perfection.
00
2018
2025 - 2033
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How does Alessandro Mori and the team at Il Marroneto do it? Vintage after vintage, this portfolio stands out for its depths of vividly pure fruit, energy, character, balance and the silkiest of tannins that make them both approachable in their youth and able to mature for decades. The 2018s are no different. Are these the greatest wines to ever be bottled by the estate? No. Will they mature at a snail's pace and make glorious old bones one day? Maybe only Madonna delle Grazie. Anyway, these 2018s will thrill Brunello tasters and lovers for many years to come. So what makes them different, besides Alessandro Mori seeming to impart his passionate personality into the wines? For one thing, it’s the terroir. The Madonna delle Grazie vineyard sits at 400 meters on the steep north hill of Montalcino, literally right below the castle town, facing north. Alessandro Mori explained that “We are standing on a beach”, meaning that when the region was encompassed by a large ancient sea that deposited clay and rocks found throughout most of the north, Madonna delle Grazie was the beach that stood above the water line, which imparted this location with sandier soils, laced with marine fossils and minerals. The vineyards that feed Mori’s estate Brunello are further down the hill, with different soils. That’s where the human aspect comes into play, as the separate lots resting in the Il Marroneto cellar are judged for their potential and individuality to one day be blended, declassified or even elevated to Riserva. As for 2018, when I asked about the challenges, Alessandro Mori’s first response was, “Who said it was challenging?” That’s when location comes into play; with ventilating winds from the north to offset the humidity, well-draining soils, and two weeks of perfect weather up to harvest, it’s easy to see why “challenging” isn’t the word he would use. However, these are the wines Il Marroneto made in 2018 – with about a 15% reduction in production, more finessed and delicate in style than usual – yet completely irresistible.
00
2017
2024 - 2034
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Standing on the balcony of the Il Marroneto winery, looking out across the Madonna di Grazie vineyard and, beyond that, all of Montalcino’s north hill puts the magic of this place and this wine into perspective. This is not your average Montalcino sight or terroir. In fact, it’s difficult to compare this location to nearly any other place. As you descend down from the castle town, the inclines become quite steep very quickly. In fact, without the right vehicle and tires, you could almost imagine losing control on these dirt roads and sliding backward or literally off of the edge. This is high elevation, with the Madonna di Grazie vineyard, which is Il Marroneto’s first vineyard, planted in 1974, averaging around 400 meters. Owner and winemaker, Alessandro Mori explained to me, “We are standing on a beach.” This is when things get really interesting, as most producers on the north hill have a combination of soils that mix the deposits of an ancient sea with the deteriorating shear rock of the Montalcino hill that has slowly crumbled down into their vineyards over the centuries. However, at Madonna di Grazie, we are on the “beach”, at the water line, and these high-elevation vineyards are growing in much sandier soils, laced with marine fossils and minerals. This mix also means that they retain less water which, when combined with these old vines, creates fruit of extraordinary character. Now we add the influences of northern wind currents to the equation, which descend upon this hill each evening, cooling and tempering the vines. When you take into account the natural approach, traditional methods and transparent winemaking of Alessandro Mori, it suddenly becomes very easy to see why the Brunello di Montalcino Madonna di Grazie is a standout in nearly every vintage, and also able to excel in the most difficult ones. Of course, Il Marroneto is about much more than just Madonna di Grazie. The estate Brunello is also at the head of the pack, from vineyards further down the hill at around 250 meters of elevation. These parcels enjoy the same loving care, yet in soils that promote a lighter, more delicate yet still characterful and age worthy style. The Brunello of Il Marroneto is pure elegance, yet delicate in feel. Both wines undergo extended aging in a combination of large French and Slavonian oak casks, with just a matter of time and material that sets them apart. These are living wines which, when tasted, actually express a sensation of wholesomeness.
But wait, there’s more. While visiting the winery in July of 2021, I was confronted with a single barrel sample that was a blending of three barrels, all from the 2019 vintage and the Madonna di Grazie vineyard. As explained by Alessandro Mori, when his son Iacopo officially joined the winery the previous year, he gave him full control over creating his own special blend from these barrels. The wine, labeled Rosso di Montalcino Selezione Iacopo, is just being released this year, having spent two years in cask. Luckily, an official bottled sample of this wine was delivered to our offices along with the new vintages of Brunello; and yes, lightning did strike twice. While it will be priced along the lines of the Brunello, this represents an amazing relative value to lovers of this estate. And last but not least, let’s just say that Alessandro Mori has a couple more tricks up his sleeve, which includes prospects for another Riserva. Keep in mind that only one has ever been released in the history of the estate. I’m very happy to report that Il Marroneto remains at the top of their game and at the head of the pack.
00
2016
2026 - 2042
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Alessandro Mori of Il Marroneto has gone from strength to strength from vintage to vintage. Not only did 2016 and 2019 reach great heights, but Mori was able to cull magic from the difficult 2017 and 2018 vintages. The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio is a racy and refined wine that provides both immediate satisfaction and balance for the cellar. The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino Selezione Iacopo, a selection made by Mori’s son from his Brunello barrels, is once again a gorgeous interpretation of house style and place. This is a wolf in sheep's clothing, boasting the Rosso name while overdelivering in every way. As for the 2019 Brunello, the most difficult thing will be to keep our hands off of it long enough to give it the time it needs to mature. Very much in Il Marroneto style, this wine is already showing beautifully with vividly ripe fruits and sweet spices, all on a framework of pure elegance. For all of its upfront appeal, waiting is absolutely recommended. The 2019 Madonna delle Grazie remains a wine of meditation, yet with an energy about it that is seldom seen. I’ve tasted this from cask multiple times and bottle in Italy and the United States. The last bottle was left open for two days and only got better. The only thing that surpassed it was the 2016 that I revisited recently, a wine that flirts with perfection.
00
2015
2026 - 2038
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2015
2024 - 2033
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2015
2025 - 2040
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Il Marroneto is a relatively young estate in the company of other Montalcino properties that can lay a similar claim to being true to tradition and a representation of the region's noble terroir. Located on the northern hillside of Montalcino, the Il Marroneto vineyards have long been known to produce Brunello of zesty acids and minerality, which owner and winemaker Alessandro Mori couldn’t be more happy with. For him, Brunello should be made in the vineyard, a vineyard which he has watched blossom over the past 45 years. Yields are kept painfully low through natural means, allowing grasses and flora to grow between the well-spaced vines, as well as all organic, non-interventionist practices, which continue throughout the winery cellar. Mori also only partially destems and ages all in large oak botti. The result is a portfolio of Brunello that are true representations of the vineyard, vintage, and, of course, Sangiovese. These are wines for the Montalcino purist that continue to win fans as the world’s tastes for what a Brunello should be slowly aligns with Mori's vision.
00
2013
2020 - 2029
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2012
2024 - 2032
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Alessandro Mori of Il Marroneto recalls 2012 as a challenging vintage. Recounting, “I remember one terrible storm in the moment of the flowering, and after that, a very long period without a drop of rain from the sky.” These conditions reduced yields, resulting in small and concentrated berries at the end of harvest. Like other producers that had the courage to resist an early harvest, the success of Il Marroneto was due to the early September rains and moderate conditions that followed. In the end, Mori began harvesting on the 20th of September. The resulting wines are simply fantastic.
00
2012
2027 - 2040
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2012
2025 - 2040
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2011
2024 - 2031
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2011
2021 - 2041
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Il Marroneto, a tiny six-hectare estate on the northern side of Montalcino, has emerged as a major player in just about the last decade. Alessandro Mori crafts uncompromisingly traditional Brunellos of real pedigree. The straight Brunello is a bit more classically austere than the Madonna delle Grazie parcel selection, which is richer, deeper and darker. In many vintages, I prefer the straight Brunello, but in 2011 both wines are magnificent, although they retain their distinctive personalities. Readers who have not tasted these Brunellos yet owe it to themselves to do so.
00
2010
2026 - 2038
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2010
2018 - 2035
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Are the 2010 Brunellos really all they are cracked up to be? After months of seeing and hearing all the hype Vinous readers wanted to see (and taste) for themselves. This recent dinner at Lincoln Ristorante gave attendees an early look at a dozen of the vintage’s best known and most highly regarded wines.
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2010
2018 - 2035
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Il Marroneto might be the single most important yet under-the-radar estate in all of Montalcino. Proprietor Alessandro Mori crafts traditionally-styled Brunellos of true pedigree. Both Brunellos see extended time in cask, and retain striking purity. Readers with classically-leaning palate will want to check out Il Marroneto, as the wines are simply fabulous.
00
2009
2014 - 2019
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2008
2015 - 2028
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Over the last few vintages, Il Marroneto has been one of the more dynamic properties in Montalcino. The two 2008s I tasted were both terrific.
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2008
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2007
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2007
2015 - 2027
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These are two thrilling wines from Il Marroneto, a property that continues to show significant improvement.
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2006
2024 - 2036
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2006
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2006
2014 - 2024
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Each year I am increasingly impressed with the wines I taste from Il Marroneto.
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2005
2024 - 2030
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2005
2016 - 2020
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Over the last few years, Il Marroneto has emerged as one of the top properties in Montalcino. The Madonna delle Grazie, the estate's top bottling, often gets most of the attention, but I often find the straight Brunello just as compelling. At their best, the wines age beautifully. Il Marroneto needs to be on the radar for readers who enjoy classically built, age-worthy Brunellos.
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2005
2013 - 2022
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Once again, I came away deeply impressed with the wines I taste from Il Marroneto, a small property located to the north of the town of Montalcino.
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2004
2018 - 2034
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Over the last few years, Il Marroneto has emerged as one of the top properties in Montalcino. The Madonna delle Grazie, the estate's top bottling, often gets most of the attention, but I often find the straight Brunello just as compelling. At their best, the wines age beautifully. Il Marroneto needs to be on the radar for readers who enjoy classically built, age-worthy Brunellos.
00
2004
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2004
2013 - 2024
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In recent years Il Marroneto and proprietor Alessandro Mori have turned out very strong wines, as is the case again in 2004. These big, cask-aged Brunellos offers tons of style and sheer pedigree.
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2003
2024 - 2028
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2003
2013 - 2020
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This small estate lies just outside the town of Montalcino. The wines seem to be getting better with each passing vintage, and these 2003s are both very strong efforts.
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