2000 Riesling Vendanges Tardives

The 2000 vintage brought the ripest riesling here in 30 years, according to marketing director Etienne Hugel, whose cousin Marc handles winemaking for this highly visible firm. Potential alcohol levels here were a full degree higher than those of '97, the ripest previous year. In fact, noted Etienne, it was virtually impossible to get bone-dry riesling in 2000. He pointed out that the estate works with a high percentage of fruit from heavy soils, both its own and material purchased by long-term contract. As a result, the firm does not do as well as some in rainy years like 1999, but performs better than average in dryer years like 1997 and 1990. Nineteen ninety-nine, said Etienne, brought the highest yields since 1992, with 2000 a good 10% to 20% lower across the board. Hugel has long had a reputation for making some of the region greatest SGN bottlings, often in substantial quantities. Although relatively little SGN was produced in 2000, the examples I tasted presented stupendous potential.