2004 Riesling Jubilee
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Even though October of 2004 brought eight inches of rain, the grapes were okay during the first half of the month, said Marc Hugel. "We did 80% of our harvest with the fruit in pretty good condition. It's the later stuff that wasn't very good: not ripe enough, too much grey rot, off aromas." He went on: "We picked mostly from October 4 through 20, during a very humid period when afternoon temperatures were generally in the upper 50s. After that, the riesling grapes went from 98% sound to 60% botrytized in ten days, like they did in 1998. At the end we had 80% rotten grapes, mostly noble rot. Problems with grey rot were worst with the late pinot gris fruit." In the end the Hugels decided not to offer any VT or SGN wines. I tasted Hugel's more serious 2004 cuvees, as a number of the lighter bottlings were already sold out.
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