2000 Fût de Chêne (2013 base)

Note to self: drink more Giraud Champagne. That's all I could think as I ran through these new releases from Claude Giraud, a man whose temperament is very much reflected in impeccable Champagnes loaded with personality. Giraud is based in Ay, where Pinot reigns supreme. With the exception of the Hommage, all of the wines are vinified in oak, which gives them much of their breadth and pure textural volume. At the same time, the oak in these wines is impeccably balanced, something that hasn't always been the case. Giraud fans will want to note a few changes to the range. Beginning this year, the Fût de Chêne is a multi-vintage Champagne. Giraud is introducing his new tête de cuvée Argonne, the result of 25 years of studying the terroirs of the Argonne forest with the goal of selecting the best sites for the trees that are used for Giraud's barrels. I will report on that wine as soon as I have a chance to taste it. I am absolutely thrilled with the direction the Giraud wines have been going in over the last few years. These are some of the most exciting wines being made in Champagne today.

Claude Giraud makes some of the most unique, individualistic wines in Champagne. All of the wines bear the unmistakable stamp of the Grand Cru vineyards of Aÿ. The top selections (Code Noir and Fût de Chêne) are vinified and aged in oak, which plays an important role in shaping many of the finest wines here. At their best, the Giraud Champagnes offer incredible intensity, class and balance.