2015 Argonne

This is a strong set of wines from proprietor Claude Giraud and longtime Chef de Caves Sebastien Le Golvet. As I have written here previously, the house style at Giraud has changed quite a bit in recent years. That evolution was especially evident during my most recent visit. These used to be rich, textured Champagnes marked by opulence and strong oak inflections. Today’s wines are much fresher and more vibrant. Dosage has also come down. The wines are quite expressive but may surprise the domaine’s longtime fans. These kinds of transitions are very hard to navigate, as there is often a natural tension between staying true to an established style while also pursuing a desire to be contemporary. The focus seems to be squarely on the latter. I have little doubt the team will succeed, but I also see the wines as works in progress.