2008 Argonne

I tasted a number of wines during my most recent visit to Henri Giraud. From year to year, Giraud is one of the houses that is always forging ahead with something new. Proprietor Claude Giraud seems to live in his own world, which gives the maison a somewhat detached feel within the context of the region. I also tasted a number of prior releases of the Fût de Chêne, which I have included here for reference. Some of the vintages are labeled “Collection,” a designation the maison uses for older wines that are being re-released directly from the winery. There is no difference in the wines, how they are aged or the dosage between the original releases or the Collection series. Giraud does include disgorgement dates on their bottles, but they are so finely etched into the glass as to be only decipherable by the most determined of consumers. In other words, the format is impractical to the point of offering very little real value. As for the wines, there is not much to say except they are terrific examples of the richer, more vinous style of Champagne. The value play in this range remains the Hommage A François Hemart.