2002 Haut-Marbuzet
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Despite pruning short and carrying out a green harvest, Haut-Marbuzet produced the maximum allowable yield for the first time in many years, according to Bruno Duboscq. "Where yields were high, it was hard to ripen the tannins completely," he noted. The vintage brought high grape sugars, and little chaptalization was needed. The estate carried out a saignee of 15% to 20%, he said, "but no more, as that would have risked throwing off the balance of the wine."
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St. Estephe excels in the hottest years, like 2003, 1989 and 1982, said Bruno Duboscq, adding that the newest vintage shows much less jammy character than those earlier years. "The hot years are when we get perfectly ripe cabernet sauvignon," he added. "We're certainly benefitting from global warming. We had cabernet sauvignon at 13% in 2003, a level we've never seen before. The acidity was very low but we did not acidify since the wine had so much volume. The tannin levels are also very high, but the tannins are silky and not at all aggressive."
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The crop level in 2002 was down 30% due to coulure in the merlot and "lots of millerandage in all three varieties," noted production manager Bruno Duboscq. Yes, it was a difficult summer, Duboscq admitted, but there was a lot of evaporation of water through the summer and in September, "and more sap for fewer grapes." The 2002 did not need to be chaptalized; in recent years, only the '82, '89, '90 and '96 received no sugar additions. Haut-Marbuzet may well be able to avoid cutting its price as sharply as many of its neighbors are doing this year, as a high percentage of its sales are directly to private clients rather than through negociants
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