2001 Haut-Marbuzet

Wine Details
Place of Origin

France

Saint Estèphe

Bordeaux

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Bordeaux Blend

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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St. Estephe excels in the hottest years, like 2003, 1989 and 1982, said Bruno Duboscq, adding that the newest vintage shows much less jammy character than those earlier years. "The hot years are when we get perfectly ripe cabernet sauvignon," he added. "We're certainly benefitting from global warming. We had cabernet sauvignon at 13% in 2003, a level we've never seen before. The acidity was very low but we did not acidify since the wine had so much volume. The tannin levels are also very high, but the tannins are silky and not at all aggressive."

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The crop level in 2002 was down 30% due to coulure in the merlot and "lots of millerandage in all three varieties," noted production manager Bruno Duboscq. Yes, it was a difficult summer, Duboscq admitted, but there was a lot of evaporation of water through the summer and in September, "and more sap for fewer grapes." The 2002 did not need to be chaptalized; in recent years, only the '82, '89, '90 and '96 received no sugar additions. Haut-Marbuzet may well be able to avoid cutting its price as sharply as many of its neighbors are doing this year, as a high percentage of its sales are directly to private clients rather than through negociants

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Henri Duboscq told me he has preferred his 2001 to his 2000 from the outset, due to the new vintage's fresher, more vibrant fruit. "But the '98 is still my best wine of the past 10 years. We've actually had very consistent quality since 1995. We had a dip from 1992 through 1994 because we weren't selective enough. I was too sure of my superiority," admitted Duboscq, "and I didn't take into consideration the huge progress being made by my neighbors." Duboscq was among the first in the Medoc to do the malolactic fermentation in new barriques Or, as he put it, "I was the first to overwhelm the terroir in the first five or six years of the wine's life. In recent years, though, Haut-Marbuzet has become more a wine of place than of vintage."