2014 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion
France
Pessac Léognan, Graves
Bordeaux
Red
55.5% Merlot, 40.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.6% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
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2024 - 2040
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2020 - 2035
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2020 - 2034
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This is a stellar set of wines from Haut-Brion. It's as simple as that. The reds are powerful and intense, with the interplay of ripeness and freshness that is the signature of the very finest 2014s. I was equally impressed with the whites. Whereas many 2014s are a bit flabby, both Haut-Brion whites have preserved considerable freshness.
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If I had to pick one highlight from the two weeks I spent in Bordeaux, it might very well be Haut-Brion, where I tasted a number of dazzling wines from Haut-Brion and sister property La Mission Haut-Brion. In talking about the 2014s, General Manager Jean-Philippe Delmas draws comparisons with 1988 and 1978, both vintages with considerable freshness. Delmas goes on to explain that the 2014s have pHs that are in line with the 2010s, although the acidities are a bit lower. The Haut-Brion and La Mission wines are among the richest I tasted this April, the result of a warm Indian summer that concentrated the grapes during the last phase of ripening. The whites and reds at both properties are all above 14% in alcohol, with some wines approaching 15%, but none of the wines feel at all heavy. To the contrary, 2014 is a magical vintage at both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion.
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