2003 The Maiden
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My March visit to Harlan Estate, where I also see the ever-expanding line-up of Bond wines-which come from the same team of Bill Harlan, winemaker Bob Levy and enologist Michel Rolland-is consistently one of the highlights of my tasting year. On my latest visit, Levy compared the Harlan Estate 2001 to the 1994 ("classic") and the 2002 to the 1995 ("fleshier, more forward"). The 2002 is indeed a monumental wine, and the new 2004 looks to be in a similar style.
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Low cluster weights resulted in tiny yields and extraordinary concentration at Harlan Estate in 2002 and again in 2003.According to winemaker Bob Levy, the cabernet clusters weighed, on average, less than three ounces in 2002, and the ultimate yield here was less than a ton of fruit per acre.The result is one of the most extraordinary young California cabernets I have ever tasted.
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