2002 The Maiden
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Low cluster weights resulted in tiny yields and extraordinary concentration at Harlan Estate in 2002 and again in 2003.According to winemaker Bob Levy, the cabernet clusters weighed, on average, less than three ounces in 2002, and the ultimate yield here was less than a ton of fruit per acre.The result is one of the most extraordinary young California cabernets I have ever tasted.
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I find it ironic that at a time when so many California wineries seem to be trying to imitate the 1997 Harlan Estate bottling, the sophisticated winemaking team at Harlan Estate now views this extremely rich, port-like wine as the extreme example among its extraordinary range of vintages. Current vintages at this elite hillside property above Oakville are as rich and deep as ever, but manage, uncannily, to retain inner-mouth vibrancy. The 2002 vintage was not hotter than 2001," said winemaker Bob Levy, "but the wine is riper, with even greater sweetness."Don't miss my notes on the Bond wines, also from Bill Harlan and the same winemaking team of Bob Levy and superconsultant Michel Rolland, later in this issue.
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