2001 The Maiden
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I find it ironic that at a time when so many California wineries seem to be trying to imitate the 1997 Harlan Estate bottling, the sophisticated winemaking team at Harlan Estate now views this extremely rich, port-like wine as the extreme example among its extraordinary range of vintages. Current vintages at this elite hillside property above Oakville are as rich and deep as ever, but manage, uncannily, to retain inner-mouth vibrancy. The 2002 vintage was not hotter than 2001," said winemaker Bob Levy, "but the wine is riper, with even greater sweetness."Don't miss my notes on the Bond wines, also from Bill Harlan and the same winemaking team of Bob Levy and superconsultant Michel Rolland, later in this issue.
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On my annual visit to Harlan Estate, I was struck by the way this producer's flagship wine tracked vintages 1999, 2000 and 2001 in style: the 1999 showing great verve and a tightly coiled structure; the 2000 very suave but smaller-scaled than '99 or '01; and the 2001 a wine of monumental richness and sweetness of fruit without going over the top. Not surprisingly, all three wines are among California's elite examples from their respective vintages.
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