2023 Riesling Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay

What a stunning and faceted collection. Wilhelm Steinmetz founded this Brauneberg-based estate in the 1920s. Today, Stefan Steinmetz and his American wife, Sammie, run the operation. Their 13 hectares of vines span steep sites like Brauneberger Juffer, Kestener Paulinshofberg, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Treppchen, Grafenberg and Domherr, Mülheimer Sonnenlay, Veldenzer Grafschafter Sonnenberg, Neumagener Rosengärtchen, Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay, Wintricher Geierslay and Oligsberg, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Dhroner Hofberg and the monopole  of Dhroner Grosser Hengelberg (where he crafts a vivid, clear-cut style of very fine-boned Riesling). Steinmetz sets store by reduced yields and absolute delineation of his sites. All the dry Rieslings go through malolactic  conversion, yet their clarity and freshness would never make you guess that. This is masterful winemaking. Lovers of Pinot Noir should also remember the Steinmetz name, as these delicate yet resonant wines are compelling renditions of this fascinating grape.