2017 Gruaud Larose
France
Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2025 - 2053
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2021 - 2038
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2022 - 2040
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At Gruaud Larose the most eye-catching feature remains the priapic metal tower that spouts from the vineyard. Although the tower is the most conspicuous change, more importantly, there is a less visible revision of vineyard husbandry. Following the lead of Pontet-Canet, Palmer and Latour, 32-hectares of the vineyard were converted to biodynamic in 2017 that will be increased to 50-hectares in 2018. “We cropped at 49hl/ha since we were only slightly touched by the frost,” proprietor Jacques Merlaut explained. “There was no stress in the vineyard. It was rainy in September after an exceptional summer. We tried to find the same tannin extract of the Cabernet Sauvignon that felt very beautiful in the vineyard. The tannins make the taste, so it was important to approach each vat very precisely. The structure is very good in terms of density and finesse.” I have a lot of affection for this Saint-Julien. Some have claimed that Gruaud-Larose has “meandered” in recent years, something I sympathize with, though I do not totally agree. The latest release comes in at a modest 12.88° alcohol and is enhanced by what feels like a prudent extraction in the winery, one of the keys to finding success in this vintage. Whilst it might not constitute a long-term Gruaud-Larose, it is beautifully crafted, just a wine intent on giving pleasure.
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