2006 Gruaud Larose
France
Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2024 - 2036
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2019 - 2032
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Consulting enologist Eric Boissenot, who functions behind the scenes at many of the top chateaux of the Medoc, was brought in for the 2007 vintage, as director Georges Pauli will be retiring next year. According to owner Jean Merlaut, Boissenot is keen on softer vinifications and is looking for more precision, "but then the 2007 vintage also required taking this approach to keep the fruit." He lowered the maximum fermentation temperature to about 28oC, carried out a softer and shorter maceration with fewer pumpovers than in 2006, and did not heat the must at the end, which has long been a technique routinely applied at Gruaud-Larose. The grand vin represents less than 50% of the harvest. Merlaut described the 2007 merlot as fragile, as the skins were less thick than in 2006. "The technological maturity came fast, and the sugars were going up quickly when we started picking on September 20. The flavors are good but the merlot lacked structure," he added, an opinion that was voiced numerous times during my days in the Medoc.
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Director Georges Pauli told me he has carried out a pre-fermentation cold soak here for the past five vintages "for aromatic expression." The temperature of the wine rises as high as 32oC during the fermentation and then slowly descends to 25oC or so in the cement and wood tanks, at which point it receives another 15 days of post-fermentation maceration. Pauli uses enzymes at the end of the fermentation to get more fat in the wine. "We get bigger tannins but they're never dry tannins," he said. Pauli told me the 2006 shows more aromatic character than the estate's 2004, thanks to the cool nights in August. The grand vin represents less than 50% of the harvest.
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