2003 Gruaud Larose
France
Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec
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2024 - 2033
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2023 - 2035
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2022 - 2032
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The Waterside Inn is everything that one could wish for. Not only with the standard of cuisine, exquisite as it is, but the service, ambiance and without question, the setting.
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Also recommended: 1952 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (86), 1882 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1863 Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1851 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85). Other wines tasted: 1972 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1883 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1872 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1862 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien.
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Director Georges Pauli described this property's 2005 as having "great aromatic expressiveness: like the 2000 but more intense and complex." As always, he told me, Gruaud-Larose was the first to begin harvesting in St. Julien and the last to finish, taking a full month to pick. Although the cabernet was particularly ripe, at 12.3% to 12.5% potential alcohol, the blend has firm acidity of 3.5 grams per liter (3.0 to 3.3 is typical here) and a relatively low pH of 3.7. "We had the courage not to acidify," said Pauli, "and the 2005 will enjoy great longevity." Pauli added that he felt the new vintage is "the ultimate expression of this terroir
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Director Georges Pauli and his team carried out a long cold soak of the fruit in 2004, with the objective of getting "maximum aromatic expression." The cuvaison was a relatively long four to five weeks, with the fermentation temperature mounting to 32oC. But what I liked most about the 2004 was the absence of the faintly stewed fruit flavors that have typified this chateau's grand vin in many recent vintages. Incidentally, Pauli noted that the average age of the vines here is increasing. Before this chateau changed hands in 1997, vines were routinely replanted at age 50, but today the old vines are allowed to stick around until they reach 60.
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Since this chateau changed hands in 1997, yields have been cut from the 65 to 70 hectoliters-per-hectare range to more like 40 to 45 today, with the vineyards being farmed organically. Today all of the vines younger than 20 years of age go into the estate's second wine, Sarget de Gruaud-Larose, and the average age of vines used for the grand vin is now 40.
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