2002 Gruaud Larose
France
Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec
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2024 - 2032
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2022 - 2032
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Also recommended: 1952 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (86), 1882 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1863 Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1851 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85). Other wines tasted: 1972 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1883 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1872 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1862 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien.
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Director Georges Pauli and his team carried out a long cold soak of the fruit in 2004, with the objective of getting "maximum aromatic expression." The cuvaison was a relatively long four to five weeks, with the fermentation temperature mounting to 32oC. But what I liked most about the 2004 was the absence of the faintly stewed fruit flavors that have typified this chateau's grand vin in many recent vintages. Incidentally, Pauli noted that the average age of the vines here is increasing. Before this chateau changed hands in 1997, vines were routinely replanted at age 50, but today the old vines are allowed to stick around until they reach 60.
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Since this chateau changed hands in 1997, yields have been cut from the 65 to 70 hectoliters-per-hectare range to more like 40 to 45 today, with the vineyards being farmed organically. Today all of the vines younger than 20 years of age go into the estate's second wine, Sarget de Gruaud-Larose, and the average age of vines used for the grand vin is now 40.
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There was no need to use the concentrators in 2002, said maitre de chai Philippe Carmagnac, and the estate took a light hand with the cold maceration. The wine was fermented at a slightly cooler temperature than normal, with a bit less strenuous pumping over of the must, but the maceration time was long. Forty percent of the wine underwent its malolactic fermentation in new barriques, particularly the cabernet.
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