1996 Gruaud Larose

Also recommended: 1952 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (86), 1882 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1863 Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1851 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85). Other wines tasted: 1972 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1883 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1872 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1862 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien.

Following its habit of recent years, Gruaud-Larose harvested on the late side, not beginning until September 29 and finishing on October 13. The result, according to maitre de chai Philippe Carmagnac, was that "we got some dilution, as well as more phenolic ripeness." For the first time, Gruaud-Larose used the Entropie method in an attempt to eliminate excess water from the juice. The '98 features 50% new oak, up significantly from just 30% in '96. A portion of the malolactic fermentation, particularly for the merlot, is done in barriques

"1997 was my most difficult vintage in 20 years," says director Georges Pauli. "The biological rhythm of the vines was completely thrown off by the rains in June and August. In order to pick good grapes in good condition at good ripeness levels it was necessary to take risks." Accordingly, the estate harvested its merlot between September 17 and 22, then waited nearly two weeks before starting to pick cabernet sauvignon on October 5. A substantial saignee was carried out, especially for the cabernet ("the vines kept pumping, and the grapes gained 20% in volume following the late August rain," said Pauli). The total cuvaison lasted a full month. First, a cold maceration lasting six to eight days was done to get maximum aroma and anthocyanins, Pauli explains. Then the fermentation itself was explosive and fast, with all the sugar done in three days, and this stage was followed by a very long (20 days) post-fermentation maceration at fairly high temperature. Ultimately only 40% of the harvest went into the grand vin, vs. a more typical 65%-70%.