1995 Gruaud Larose

Also recommended: 1952 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (86), 1882 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1863 Chateau Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85), 1851 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien (85). Other wines tasted: 1972 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1883 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1872 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien, 1862 Château Gruaud Larose Saint-Julien.

"1997 was my most difficult vintage in 20 years," says director Georges Pauli. "The biological rhythm of the vines was completely thrown off by the rains in June and August. In order to pick good grapes in good condition at good ripeness levels it was necessary to take risks." Accordingly, the estate harvested its merlot between September 17 and 22, then waited nearly two weeks before starting to pick cabernet sauvignon on October 5. A substantial saignee was carried out, especially for the cabernet ("the vines kept pumping, and the grapes gained 20% in volume following the late August rain," said Pauli). The total cuvaison lasted a full month. First, a cold maceration lasting six to eight days was done to get maximum aroma and anthocyanins, Pauli explains. Then the fermentation itself was explosive and fast, with all the sugar done in three days, and this stage was followed by a very long (20 days) post-fermentation maceration at fairly high temperature. Ultimately only 40% of the harvest went into the grand vin, vs. a more typical 65%-70%.

The imposing château and grounds of Gruaud-Larose currently resemble a construction site. I had to dodge earth-moving equipment on my way to the chaff. Happily, judging from my early look at the '95, the wine at this address is also being renovated after several unexceptional vintages. Yields of around 50 h/h in '95 were lower than those of '94, and the grapes were richer in polyphenols and sugars. In fact, measurable tannins were just slightly lower than those of '86, though the '95 appears to be fatter and rounder than that earlier vintage. The '95 received a longer cuvaison and more extraction than the '94. One senses the concentration and creaminess that comes from small cabernet grapes.