2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste
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2023 - 2036
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2027 - 2055
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Director Francois-Xavier Borie kept the fermentation temperatures to 28oC due to the high potential alcohol of the 2005 vintage. "The extraction came easily, and we were very careful not to extract tannins from the pips." Rather than overextracting and getting too much tannin, Borie said the estate used 12% press wine, which "brought more complexity, like adding salt and pepper." This was a strategy shared by a number of producers in the Medoc: extract gently and then decide how much high-quality press wine to blend back into the wine. (All evidence suggests that those who practiced more extractive vinification were left with lower-quality press wine that added little to the blend.) Borie noted that the cabernet was better than the merlot in 2005, and that the latter variety, which came in at potential alcohol up to 14.2%, gave a jammy style of wine. "We wanted to keep our normal style, even in a very ripe vintage like 2005."
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This property has been completely transformed since the Borie family took it over in 1978. At the time, there were just 22 hectares under vine; today there are 55, and all the new plantings have been on lower-vigor riparia rootstock, whose tendency to mature its fruit earlier was beneficial in the late harvest of 2004. Xavier-Francois Borie, now in charge here, left the cabernet franc out of the final blend in 2004, as he felt it did not bring anything extra to the wine.
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Vintage 2003 brought the highest cabernet sugars ever recorded at this estate, at 13%, said Francois-Xavier Borie, who told me that he extracted "for fruit and freshness." The wine has a very good balance of alcohol and tannins, he went on. "It's fresh, not jammy or flat."
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