2021 Barolo Francia

Roberto Conterno has built an impressive empire in the 20 or so years that he has been fully in charge of his family’s winery. I remember the days when it was a one-man show. Back then, Conterno pretty much did it all himself, including answering the phone. Making great wine is hard enough, but Conterno has proven to be equally skilled at the entrepreneurial side of running a business that continues to grow with the acquisition of vineyards, the purchase of Nervi winery in Gattinara and peripheral businesses in glassware and automated tractors for viticulture. During my November visit, much of the local buzz centered on Conterno’s Belsit in Langa restaurant, the new incarnation of Ristorante Bovio, which was in a sort of soft opening at the time. I did have a very good meal there, but it’s too early in the restaurant’s life to be able to offer a reliable assessment. One thing that did strike me, though, was Conterno’s desire to champion the wines of many producers, not just his own, at far more accessible prices than what has become the norm at many other restaurants in the region. Hopefully that will prove to be a sustainable business model.

As for the wines, readers will find two magnificent vintages in 2021 and 2020. I imagine these Barolos will go neck-and-neck over the coming years and decades. The 2021s are a bit more vibrant and focused, while the 2020s are a touch more open, without veering into excessive opulence. Simply put, Conterno has very few peers when it comes to exceptionally high quality and consistency.