2018 Barolo Francia
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Never one to mince words, Roberto Conterno has no problem talking about all of the changes he has introduced at his family’s domaine over the last twenty years or so. “If my father asked me if I had changed anything at the estate since he passed away and I replied: ‘No, we haven’t changed a thing’ he would tell me I was an idiot. Of course things have changed. Everything has changed.” So begins a tasting that spans a wide range of new releases from both of Conterno’s properties.
One of the privileges of this job is having the opportunity to visit leading estates all over the world. It’s something that affords a great deal of perspective. The Giacomo Conterno winery was already quite established when Roberto Conterno took over following his father’s death in 2004. Since then, Conterno has not only elevated the family winery to the top in Italy, he has placed it firmly among the greatest estates anywhere in the world. As for the 2018 Barolos, they reflect the less than ideal conditions of the year. I find the wines a bit nervous. It will be fascinating to see how they develop.
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"In the end, 2018 did not turn out as strong as I initially expected," Roberto Conterno told me. "Let me be clear, it's not that the wine's aren't good, but I had really high expectations going into harvest. We did not see the diurnal shifts I had hoped for. Naturally, I am talking about our wines only. I am much happier with our results in Gattinara." The 2018s have the nervous energy that is typical of so many wines in this vintage. I tasted all of the wines from barrel, hence the parenthetical scores. There is no Monfortino in 2018, marking the third consecutive vintage in which Conterno has opted not to bottle his flagship wine, the first time that has happened since the mid-1970s. "Let's see what happens with 2019, 2020 and 2021," Conterno said as we wrapped our conversation.
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