2012 Barolo Francia
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I tasted these wines from Roberto Conterno in August 2016 and then two months later. During that time, the wines closed down considerably. Interestingly, the Cerretta appears to be quite a bit more bottle shocked than the Francia. I saw the same thing with the 2014 Barberas, so perhaps the wines' behavior has something to do with the specific personalities of these sites. Regardless, readers will have to be patient with the 2012 Barolos. The 2010 Monfortino is a unique case, in that it was bottled this year but won't be sold until 2017. At the beginning of the year, Roberto Conterno had not decided whether to bottle the 2010 this past summer or give the wine another year in cask. As a result, Conterno did not put the 2010 Monfortino on his price list this year. In the past, I have advised Vinous readers to taste the new release of Monfortino upon release, while the wine has still not shut down post-bottling, but that won't be possible with the 2010. If anything, that wine is already heading into what will almost certainly be a long slumber.
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Roberto Conterno's 2012 Barolos are striking and full of promise. Harvest took place from October 12-15, more or less normal by modern-day standards, with yields that came in lower than 2011. the 2012s stand out for their aromatic intensity and overall polish. In particular, the Barolo Cerretta is super-impressive. As a post-script to this tasting, Roberto Conterno has decided not to bottle his Monfortino, so the Francia will naturally gain from the addition of that juice. Of all the recent vintages in which Monfortino has not been bottled, 2012 strikes me as a year where that decision must have been especially difficult given the overall quality of the wines.
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