2001 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia

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2014 - 2016

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Roberto Conterno's 2012 Barberas are gorgeous. The Francia plays in the realm of savory and mineral notes, while the Cerretta emphasizes fruit, resonance and texture. Both wines are striking. I also tasted the 2001 Barbera Francia, which has developed beautifully in bottle.

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2014 - 2021

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This vertical tasting of Giacomo Conterno's Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia was a poignant reminder that Piedmont is more than Barolo and Barbaresco, as great as those wines are. The Conterno family purchased Cascina Francia in 1974 and immediately planted the vineyard with Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto and Freisa, the typical complement of Piedmontese grapes at the time. The first vintage from Cascina Francia, a steep hillside vineyard in Serralunga was 1978. The Barolos from this site are of course among the most iconic wines anywhere in the world, but the Barbera is equally deserving of attention.

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This wine was tasted over dinner at Da Cesare, Albaretto della Torre (CN), Italy

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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "

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