2014 Barolo Riserva Monfortino
Italy
Serralunga D'alba
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2020 vintage)
00
2014
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Roberto Conterno's 2014 Barolos have been thrilling since I first started tasting them a few years ago. Two thousand fourteen is the first vintage Conterno made with his new state-of-the-art destemmer. If there was a vintage that could have benefited from a little more selection in the cellar, 2014 was certainly it. As he has done a few times now, Conterno decided not to bottle his Barolo Cascina Francia and instead used all of the fruit for his flagship Monfortino. The 2015 Barberas are also noteworthy, and well worth your time.
00
2020
2030 - 2050
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Roberto Conterno has built an impressive empire in the 20 or so years that he has been fully in charge of his family’s winery. I remember the days when it was a one-man show. Back then, Conterno pretty much did it all himself, including answering the phone. Making great wine is hard enough, but Conterno has proven to be equally skilled at the entrepreneurial side of running a business that continues to grow with the acquisition of vineyards, the purchase of Nervi winery in Gattinara and peripheral businesses in glassware and automated tractors for viticulture. During my November visit, much of the local buzz centered on Conterno’s Belsit in Langa restaurant, the new incarnation of Ristorante Bovio, which was in a sort of soft opening at the time. I did have a very good meal there, but it’s too early in the restaurant’s life to be able to offer a reliable assessment. One thing that did strike me, though, was Conterno’s desire to champion the wines of many producers, not just his own, at far more accessible prices than what has become the norm at many other restaurants in the region. Hopefully that will prove to be a sustainable business model.
As for the wines, readers will find two magnificent vintages in 2021 and 2020. I imagine these Barolos will go neck-and-neck over the coming years and decades. The 2021s are a bit more vibrant and focused, while the 2020s are a touch more open, without veering into excessive opulence. Simply put, Conterno has very few peers when it comes to exceptionally high quality and consistency.
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2020
2030 - 2060
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Conterno fans will find a lot to like in the 2020 Barolos. For starters, Conterno bottled all his single-vineyard Barolos and Monfortino, which means readers will be able to compare all the wines, something that has not always been possible in recent years, in vintages where Conterno has chosen to just make Monfortino, or no Monfortino at all. One of the recent changes here has been a decision to shorten time in cask by a year for the Barolos. “At a certain point, we noticed the wines weren’t gaining anything by spending an additional year in cask,” Conterno told me. Given its longer aging, time in wood for Monfortino is more of vintage-by-vintage decision, although, here, too, the general trend is also to give the wine less time in cask. In other news, Conterno recently announced his acquisition of Ristorante Bovio in La Morra. Ristorante Bovio is one of the most loved restaurants in the region. It will be interesting to see what things look like when the restaurant re-opens (with a new name) in a few months’ time. In my view, there is no stronger message a producer can send than investing in their own region.
00
2019
2031 - 2049
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Roberto Conterno has built an impressive empire in the 20 or so years that he has been fully in charge of his family’s winery. I remember the days when it was a one-man show. Back then, Conterno pretty much did it all himself, including answering the phone. Making great wine is hard enough, but Conterno has proven to be equally skilled at the entrepreneurial side of running a business that continues to grow with the acquisition of vineyards, the purchase of Nervi winery in Gattinara and peripheral businesses in glassware and automated tractors for viticulture. During my November visit, much of the local buzz centered on Conterno’s Belsit in Langa restaurant, the new incarnation of Ristorante Bovio, which was in a sort of soft opening at the time. I did have a very good meal there, but it’s too early in the restaurant’s life to be able to offer a reliable assessment. One thing that did strike me, though, was Conterno’s desire to champion the wines of many producers, not just his own, at far more accessible prices than what has become the norm at many other restaurants in the region. Hopefully that will prove to be a sustainable business model.
As for the wines, readers will find two magnificent vintages in 2021 and 2020. I imagine these Barolos will go neck-and-neck over the coming years and decades. The 2021s are a bit more vibrant and focused, while the 2020s are a touch more open, without veering into excessive opulence. Simply put, Conterno has very few peers when it comes to exceptionally high quality and consistency.
00
2019
2029 - 2059
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Conterno fans will find a lot to like in the 2020 Barolos. For starters, Conterno bottled all his single-vineyard Barolos and Monfortino, which means readers will be able to compare all the wines, something that has not always been possible in recent years, in vintages where Conterno has chosen to just make Monfortino, or no Monfortino at all. One of the recent changes here has been a decision to shorten time in cask by a year for the Barolos. “At a certain point, we noticed the wines weren’t gaining anything by spending an additional year in cask,” Conterno told me. Given its longer aging, time in wood for Monfortino is more of vintage-by-vintage decision, although, here, too, the general trend is also to give the wine less time in cask. In other news, Conterno recently announced his acquisition of Ristorante Bovio in La Morra. Ristorante Bovio is one of the most loved restaurants in the region. It will be interesting to see what things look like when the restaurant re-opens (with a new name) in a few months’ time. In my view, there is no stronger message a producer can send than investing in their own region.
00
2019
2029 - 2059
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Leave it to Roberto Conterno to be two steps ahead of the game. If his new winery at Nervi, new wine glasses and state-of-the-art investments at both Conterno and Nervi were not enough, Conterno recently launched a new tractor designed to automate several important operations in the vineyard, but not the harvest. At least not yet, he says with a smile. Conterno sees a shortage of labor as the biggest threat to long-term stability for wineries and sets out to do something about it. Even with all of these various projects, the wines remain absolute benchmarks. Readers will note that the Barolo Cerretta is, unusually, already in bottle. Conterno told me he may shorten time in cask for all his Barolos, as he is starting to believe today’s wines don’t necessarily benefit from the last year in wood. So, if the Cerretta is in bottle, what about the Francia and Arione? Savvy readers will deduce that those wines were all blended into the Monfortino. In other words, there are only two Barolos from Conterno in 2019, Cerretta and Monfortino. Harvest took place during the second and third weeks of October, which is quite late for the year and in line with vintages such as 2013 and 2014. The young 2019s possess striking fruit supported by potent tannins nearly buried beneath all of that intensity. I won’t be surprised if both wines turn out even better in time than these notes suggest.
00
2019
2027 - 2049
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2015
2025 - 2045
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Roberto Conterno showed me a wide range of wines during my most recent visit. Conterno shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, it is quite the opposite; the pace of innovation has never been faster. Work on an expansion to the Monforte cellar is slated to begin shortly. At Nervi, the renovated winery melds tradition with innovation to a degree that is breathtaking. As if that were not enough, Nervi now boasts a world-class restaurant, with a wine list to boot. In terms of the wines, the 2017 Barolos are unbelievably elegant and refined. They are also incredibly expressive of site. The 2015 Monfortino, the first to include fruit from Arione, is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. I also tasted the 2018 Gattinaras from Nervi. They are exceptional. A little bird told you.
00
2015
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Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.
00
2014
2029 - 2054
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00
2014
2024 - 2064
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Roberto Conterno debuts his new Barolo from Arione with the 2015, and it is a stunner, just as it was from barrel. The 2013 and 2014 Monfortinos are both magnificent. Interestingly, both were bottled with five years in cask followed by a year in bottle before release, which is less time in cask and more in bottle than in the past, a response to changes in climate, as well as a desire to released Monfortino with a bit of time in bottle. In both 2013 and 2014, Conterno bottled the entirety of his production from Francia as Monfortino, so there is no Barolo Francia in either vintage. Roberto Conterno’s relentless quest for perfection and remarkable attention to even the seemingly smallest detail comes through in these breathtaking, captivating Barolos.
00
2014
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Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.
00
2014
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Roberto Conterno's 2014 Barolos have been thrilling since I first started tasting them a few years ago. Two thousand fourteen is the first vintage Conterno made with his new state-of-the-art destemmer. If there was a vintage that could have benefited from a little more selection in the cellar, 2014 was certainly it. As he has done a few times now, Conterno decided not to bottle his Barolo Cascina Francia and instead used all of the fruit for his flagship Monfortino. The 2015 Barberas are also noteworthy, and well worth your time.
00
2013
2025 - 2053
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2013
2023 - 2063
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Roberto Conterno debuts his new Barolo from Arione with the 2015, and it is a stunner, just as it was from barrel. The 2013 and 2014 Monfortinos are both magnificent. Interestingly, both were bottled with five years in cask followed by a year in bottle before release, which is less time in cask and more in bottle than in the past, a response to changes in climate, as well as a desire to released Monfortino with a bit of time in bottle. In both 2013 and 2014, Conterno bottled the entirety of his production from Francia as Monfortino, so there is no Barolo Francia in either vintage. Roberto Conterno’s relentless quest for perfection and remarkable attention to even the seemingly smallest detail comes through in these breathtaking, captivating Barolos.
00
2013
2025 - 2053
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Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. The bottled 2016 Barberas are stellar, while the 2017s offer tons of potential, the warm, dry vintage notwithstanding. The only new Barolo release this year is the 2014 Barolo Cerretta, as Conterno decided to make only Monfortino with all of his fruit from Francia. Readers should also take a close look at 2015, a year in which there will be four Barolos: the new Arione, Cerretta, Francia and Monfortino, plus a very special Nebbiolo d'Alba bottled only in magnums that will be sold only for charity.
00
2013
2025 - 2063
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What defines excellence? So often it comes down to a willingness to do things others won't. That pretty much sums up what Roberto Conterno has done at his family's estate since assuming full control of the winery upon the passing of his father, Giovanni, in 2004. Readers who have visited the winery have seen the state of the art bottling line, the new destemmer and the new casks. But I won't bore readers with the details because at this level, wine has to be about emotion. And Conterno's 2013s deliver plenty of that. Above all else, these are Barolos of total and exquisite finesse. Conterno's wines are not inexpensive, that much is obvious, but I also can't remember the last time I was disappointed by a Conterno Barolo. Readers who can find the 2013s should not hesitate, as they are regal in every way.
00
2013
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Roberto Conterno's 2013 Barolos are fascinating in the way they have developed over the last year. The Cerretta seems to be gaining in power, while the Monfortino has become much more refined than it was at the outset. In 2013, Conterno decided to bottle the entire production from the Francia vineyard as Monfortino, which means there will be no Barolo Francia, only the second time in the estate's history that the winery has bottled Monfortino but not Francia (the first was 2002). As good as the 2013s are - and they are both shaping up to be profound - Roberto Conterno has a number of even better wines in the cellar.
00
2010
2025 - 2060
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2010
2025 - 2060
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I tasted these wines from Roberto Conterno in August 2016 and then two months later. During that time, the wines closed down considerably. Interestingly, the Cerretta appears to be quite a bit more bottle shocked than the Francia. I saw the same thing with the 2014 Barberas, so perhaps the wines' behavior has something to do with the specific personalities of these sites. Regardless, readers will have to be patient with the 2012 Barolos. The 2010 Monfortino is a unique case, in that it was bottled this year but won't be sold until 2017. At the beginning of the year, Roberto Conterno had not decided whether to bottle the 2010 this past summer or give the wine another year in cask. As a result, Conterno did not put the 2010 Monfortino on his price list this year. In the past, I have advised Vinous readers to taste the new release of Monfortino upon release, while the wine has still not shut down post-bottling, but that won't be possible with the 2010. If anything, that wine is already heading into what will almost certainly be a long slumber.
00
2010
2030 - 2050
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Roberto Conterno's recent purchase of the Arione vineyard in Serralunga was top of mind pretty much everywhere I visited last week. Conterno acquired a total of just less than 6 hectares in Arione, which shares a border with Francia. Arione is an interesting vineyard in that it straddles the border between Serralunga and Roddino, which lies outside the Barolo zone. The total surface is just about 3.6 hectares in Serralunga planted with Nebbiolo for Barolo and a bit more than 2 hectares in Roddino, one planted with Nebbiolo d'Alba and one with Barbera. There will be a new Barolo Arione starting with the 2015 vintage. It is also possible that some Arione fruit might make it into the Monfortino, as the two sites are pretty similar, according to Conterno. The Nebbiolo in Roddino will be used for a new Nebbiolo d'Alba botting. Roberto Conterno is one of the most forward thinking growers in Piedmont. Conterno's recent plan to expand the cellar 'just in case' has turned out to be a brilliant decision. In fact, without the extra space, Conterno would have had to work in very cramped quarters to vinify Arione. As for the wines in barrel, they are special. The 2013 Barberas show the personality of the late harvest year, while the 2011 Barolos are among the best wines of that vintage. Bottling is scheduled for June 2015.
00
2010
2035 - 2060
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Roberto Conterno is in the midst of remodeling his winery, which involves increasing storage space and creating a bit more space for visitors. It's hard - no, impossible - to walk among thes casks in the cellar and not think about the rich history contained within these walls. Conterno was just 17 in 1985 when he helped his father set up the winery. Among other things, that involved moving all the wines in cask from the old cellar to the current-day facility in Monforte, including the 1978 and 1982 Monfortinos, among others. The 2010 Barolos have only recently been bottled. Although it is early, it is pretty clear the wines are absolutely magical and express every bit of the potential they always have.
00
2010
2030 - 2060
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I have tasted Conterno's 2010s from barrel many times over the last few years and they have never been anything less than spellbinding. The Nebbiolo harvest took place in mid-October, pretty much average these days. Overall, the wines have a very classic sense of structure, with perhaps a bit less perfume and more evident tannin than the 2008s. With 2010, Roberto Conterno debuts with his new Barolo from the Cerretta vineyard in Serralunga. The acquisition of a new vineyard by one of Barolo's historic estates is not something that happens every day, to say the least. The addition of Conterno's Barolo Cerretta to the Piedmont landscape is a major event. When he bought the vineyard in 2008, Roberto Conterno told me he needed 2-3 years to get the vineyard in shape. Judging by the 2011 Barbera - which is interplanetary - he appears to be right on schedule. The first Barolo from Cerretta is magnificent, but things seem to just be getting started here. As for the rest, well, I have written about Conterno extensively for years. In short, though, I will reiterate that there are few producers anywhere in the world who can match Roberto Conterno's intellect, passion and unrelenting drive for excellence.
00
2009
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It's always an interesting experience tasting with Roberto Conterno, as his take on recent vintages does not necessarily track that of his colleagues. Conterno views 2008 as a unique year. "We picked late but the wines are fruity more than minerally," he said. In quantity of tannins, he went on, the 2008s are lower than 2009 but higher than 2007. "The most tannic recent vintages for us were 2010, 2006 and 2002." Conterno compares 2009 to 2007 but with a bit more acidity. There will be no 2007 Monfortino, as this cuvee was not rich enough in tannins or sufficiently powerful. Needless to say, the Cascina Francia, Conterno's only Barolo in '07, is an outperformer. In September, Conterno had not yet decided if there would be a Monfortino in 2009.
00
2008
2020 - 2048
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00
2008
2018 - 2048
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Roberto Conterno's new releases are simply stunning. Over the last 7-8 years, Conterno has made significant investments in what is a total obsession with quality. In 2008, Conterno bought a parcel in Cerretta, the first investment his family had made in vineyard land since 1974, when his parents bought Francia. Earlier this year, Conterno purchased Arione, the property that lies adjacent to Francia on the southern edge of the property. A new destemmer, professional cork testing equipment, new casks and a gleaming, Ferrari-like state of the art bottling line are all sitting in the striking, newly renovated winery. I can't think of a single producer in Piedmont who has put so much on the line and who has made investments of this importance over the last decade. For that, and for the wines that emerge from this cellar, Conterno deserves all of the praise his wines command today. "This can't happen anymore," a visibly angered Roberto Conterno told me last year in front of an off magnum of 1996 Monfortino. Unlike so many producers who know to say the right things, Conterno backs up his words with action. Prices have gone up considerably, reflecting what appears to be a new normal for Piedmont's top estates, but I can't fault a producer who is so clearly investing for the future. Take it from someone who spends six months each year visiting wineries all over the US and Europe, Giacomo Conterno is as world class as world class gets.
00
2008
2018 - 2048
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Roberto Conterno's recent purchase of the Arione vineyard in Serralunga was top of mind pretty much everywhere I visited last week. Conterno acquired a total of just less than 6 hectares in Arione, which shares a border with Francia. Arione is an interesting vineyard in that it straddles the border between Serralunga and Roddino, which lies outside the Barolo zone. The total surface is just about 3.6 hectares in Serralunga planted with Nebbiolo for Barolo and a bit more than 2 hectares in Roddino, one planted with Nebbiolo d'Alba and one with Barbera. There will be a new Barolo Arione starting with the 2015 vintage. It is also possible that some Arione fruit might make it into the Monfortino, as the two sites are pretty similar, according to Conterno. The Nebbiolo in Roddino will be used for a new Nebbiolo d'Alba botting. Roberto Conterno is one of the most forward thinking growers in Piedmont. Conterno's recent plan to expand the cellar 'just in case' has turned out to be a brilliant decision. In fact, without the extra space, Conterno would have had to work in very cramped quarters to vinify Arione. As for the wines in barrel, they are special. The 2013 Barberas show the personality of the late harvest year, while the 2011 Barolos are among the best wines of that vintage. Bottling is scheduled for June 2015.
00
2008
2018 - 2043
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Roberto Conterno is in the midst of remodeling his winery, which involves increasing storage space and creating a bit more space for visitors. It's hard - no, impossible - to walk among thes casks in the cellar and not think about the rich history contained within these walls. Conterno was just 17 in 1985 when he helped his father set up the winery. Among other things, that involved moving all the wines in cask from the old cellar to the current-day facility in Monforte, including the 1978 and 1982 Monfortinos, among others. The 2010 Barolos have only recently been bottled. Although it is early, it is pretty clear the wines are absolutely magical and express every bit of the potential they always have.
00
2008
2028 - 2048
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Roberto Conterno's 2008s capture the best qualities of the vintage. They are intensely perfumed and impeccably refined. These will be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years. As for the rest of the wines in cask, they are pretty spectacular, too. Today I am most optimistic about the 2010s, but there seems to be no shortage of great wines aging in this historic cellar. Readers who want to get an early impression on 2010 will want to check out Conterno's Barbere, which are shaping up beautifully.
00
2008
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It's always an interesting experience tasting with Roberto Conterno, as his take on recent vintages does not necessarily track that of his colleagues. Conterno views 2008 as a unique year. "We picked late but the wines are fruity more than minerally," he said. In quantity of tannins, he went on, the 2008s are lower than 2009 but higher than 2007. "The most tannic recent vintages for us were 2010, 2006 and 2002." Conterno compares 2009 to 2007 but with a bit more acidity. There will be no 2007 Monfortino, as this cuvee was not rich enough in tannins or sufficiently powerful. Needless to say, the Cascina Francia, Conterno's only Barolo in '07, is an outperformer. In September, Conterno had not yet decided if there would be a Monfortino in 2009.
00
2006
2023 - 2046
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00
2006
2021 - 2046
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2006
2021 - 2056
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I have had many superb tastings at Giacomo Conterno over the years, but the most recent was arguably the most special. Following Conterno's Barolos from barrel, into bottle and then over the years as they age is a fabulous experience. Roberto Conterno has done a fabulous job with his new releases, but there are plenty of other emotional, riveting wines aging in the cellar as well. Conterno's attention to detail is equaled by few, if any, other producers in Piedmont. Bringing cork selection and printing in house is just the latest development in an approach that starts in the vineyard and finishes in one of the most pristine, immaculate cellars readers will see anywhere in the world.
00
2006
2021 - 2056
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It is always so quiet at Conterno. Like a cathedral. Nothing is out of place. Roberto Conterno once told me his late father would walk throughout the cellar and make sure all of the casks were perfectly inline. It is that unreleting drive for excellence that has produced so many extraordinary wines here over the years. A tasting at Conterno is always a great education, but things have gotten even more interesting over the last few years with the addition of the Barbera and soon-to-be Barolo from Cerretta. Both those wines continue to grow with each passing year. The highlight among these upcoming releases is surely the 2006 Monfortino.
00
2006
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It's always an interesting experience tasting with Roberto Conterno, as his take on recent vintages does not necessarily track that of his colleagues. Conterno views 2008 as a unique year. "We picked late but the wines are fruity more than minerally," he said. In quantity of tannins, he went on, the 2008s are lower than 2009 but higher than 2007. "The most tannic recent vintages for us were 2010, 2006 and 2002." Conterno compares 2009 to 2007 but with a bit more acidity. There will be no 2007 Monfortino, as this cuvee was not rich enough in tannins or sufficiently powerful. Needless to say, the Cascina Francia, Conterno's only Barolo in '07, is an outperformer. In September, Conterno had not yet decided if there would be a Monfortino in 2009.
00
2006
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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2005
2020 - 2045
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2005
2025 - 2055
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Two thousand five is an interesting vintage at Giacomo Conterno because the Cascina Francia and Monfortino are so far apart stylistically. In many vintages - 1997, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2006 and 2008 come to mind - there is a thread that connects the two Barolos, while in other years the wines are completely different. That is very much the case in 2005, where Cascina Francia is quite delicate while Monfortino is a tannic powerhouse. Roberto Conterno also opened his 2005 Barbera to help calibrate palates after a tasting of younger wines from barrel.
00
2005
2020 - 2045
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2005
2020 - 2040
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A stop at this historic cellar in the center of Monforte is always fascinating, as no one keeps Barolo longer in cask than Roberto Conterno, giving the visitor a chance to taste numerous wines all in various stages of their maturation. If forced to pick a favorite recent vintage, I would vote for 2010, a year in which all of the wines are fabulous. Next would be 2008 and 2006, two super-classic years. Robero Conterno is by far the most enlightened of the traditional producers in Barolo. I don't think too many producers taste their wines as often as Roberto Conterno does, but what really separates Conterno from the overwhelming majority of his peers is his intense intellectual curiosity about the world's great wines. The Conterno wines remain generally traditional in interpretation, but they are also clearly the work of a winemaker living in his time and not the past. This set of new releases is full of highlights, but the Barbera from Conterno's Cerretta vineyard is particularly of note because it is the most improved wine in the lineup. When Conterno purchased this plot in 2008, he told me it would take 2-3 years to get the vineyard into top shape. When I asked him recently where he was in that process, the answer was, “Ninety percent.” Readers should note that the two flagship Baroli, Cascina Francia and Monfortino, were especially shut down every time I tasted them this past summer. Conterno bottled a month earlier than normal this year, and I think that is the reason the wines were particularly impenetrable. Readers may also want to take a look at my previous reviews, based on barrel samples, for greater context.
00
2005
2025 - 2045
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Roberto Conterno's 2008s capture the best qualities of the vintage. They are intensely perfumed and impeccably refined. These will be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years. As for the rest of the wines in cask, they are pretty spectacular, too. Today I am most optimistic about the 2010s, but there seems to be no shortage of great wines aging in this historic cellar. Readers who want to get an early impression on 2010 will want to check out Conterno's Barbere, which are shaping up beautifully.
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2005
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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2004
2020 - 2044
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2004
2016 - 2044
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Roberto Conterno made not one, but two of the wines of the vintage in 2004. These Barolos were utterly captivating in barrel and they just keep getting better in bottle. The 2004 Monfortino remains as it always has been; a model of finesse, while the Cascina Francia continues to put on weight. While both wines can be enjoyed today, they are also years away from peaking. Oddly enough, the Monfortino is more accessible than the Cascina Francia at this point in time. I can only imagine how hard it must have been for Roberto Conterno to make these wines, as his father, Giovanni Conterno, passed away in February that year. As for the wines, well, they are simply stellar. For more historical perspective and a look back at Monfortino, readers might enjoy notes from the London Monfortino Vertical.
00
2004
2014 - 2044
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2004
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It's always an interesting experience tasting with Roberto Conterno, as his take on recent vintages does not necessarily track that of his colleagues. Conterno views 2008 as a unique year. "We picked late but the wines are fruity more than minerally," he said. In quantity of tannins, he went on, the 2008s are lower than 2009 but higher than 2007. "The most tannic recent vintages for us were 2010, 2006 and 2002." Conterno compares 2009 to 2007 but with a bit more acidity. There will be no 2007 Monfortino, as this cuvee was not rich enough in tannins or sufficiently powerful. Needless to say, the Cascina Francia, Conterno's only Barolo in '07, is an outperformer. In September, Conterno had not yet decided if there would be a Monfortino in 2009.
00
2004
2019 - 2044
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The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortinos were all aged in those casks. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change.
00
2004
2024 - 2054
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A visit to this immaculate cellar is always one of the highlights of a trip to Piedmont. Proprietor Roberto Conterno has a number of gorgeous wines in barrel. I tasted just about every wine in cask and was simply blown away by the quality across all of the wines. For starters, the 2009s from his newly acquired parcels in Cerretta are a step up from the 2008s.
00
2004
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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2004
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Roberto Conterno's 2002 Barolo Monfortino is a legend before its time, as the neighbors have been talking about it for years and the wine is still nowhere near being bottled. In this mostly dreadful vintage in which virtually no producers released single-vineyard wines, Conterno announced early on that he'd be offering the estate's flagship Monfortino bottling. The reason? Conterno's Cascina Francia vines in Serralunga were spared the September hailstorm, and Conterno let the fruit hang very late in order to get sound phenolic ripeness. "It basically stopped raining after the early September hailstorm in the region and we benefited from a long period with cool nights. We eventually harvested in Cascina Francia on October 18 and 19, eliminating only the dried grapes. There was very little need to throw out anything else in 2002. " Conterno went on: "There was no in-between in this vintage," he told me. "There's either nebbiolo, which in this region was unfortunately often bottled as Barolo, or there's wine with great power. When we saw what we had harvested, my father said 'let's make only Monfortino. '" Conterno told me I was the first journalist he had showed the wine to (?), then made me promise not to publish a note. I can report that the sample I tasted, though reduced, had a very deep color; a wonderfully primary, sappy nose; almost shockingly young flavors of black fruits and minerals; and building tannins that reached the incisors. It clearly offers outstanding potential, but it remains to be seen how the market will respond to an expensive cult bottling from a forgettable vintage. As a rule, Conterno bottles his Monfortino after seven years of aging in large ovals. ("The reason we harvest so late is that we use only the tannins from the grapes, so we need to have full phenolic maturity," Conterno explained. ) He racks his wine three or four times in the first year, then once a year "at most" thereafter. "The 2001 went two or three years without a racking," he told me. "There's no rule; it depends on how the wine tastes. You know, it's more important that people recognize my wines in a tasting than like them. Otherwise we risk getting lost in the ocean of wine. " Conterno loves the 2004 vintage for both barbera and nebbiolo. "We had incredible fruit and there are many similarities to 2001: similar quantity and similar elements. In both years we eliminated about half of the grapes in a green harvest, and we made only about 28 hectoliters per hectare of Barolo in both years. " (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, New York, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2002
2020 - 2042
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2002
2017 - 2042
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2002
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This wine was tasted during La Festa del Barolo's Gala Dinner in April 2013.
"The spirit of sharing and camaraderie the world’s best wines inspire was in evidence at La Festa del Barolo, where I was fortunate to enjoy a range of emotionally moving, transcendental wines." Antonio Galloni
00
2002
2027 - 2052
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2002
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After tasting three stunning vintages of Per Cristina with Domenico Clerico, I drove up the road to see Roberto Conterno, where I was treated to two more of the highlights of my September tour: the 2004 and 2006 Barolo Monfortino. Conterno describes these vintages as similar in style, just as he links 2007 and 2005 as rounder, more elegant wines. But the 2007 does not have quite the tannic structure to merit a riserva bottling, he told me. Still, Conterno, like many of his colleagues in the Langhe, described 2007 as "a masterpiece for barbera." He calls 2006 "an intermezzo between 2005 and 2004." The wines, he says, combine the structure of 2004 with the fruit notes of 2005. (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2002
2022 - 2052
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The biggest news at Giacomo Conterno over the last few months has been the estate's recently completed acquisition of three hectares in the Cerretta vineyard in Serralunga. This is a significant development considering the winery's history. Few estates in Italy are so closely identified with one piece of land as Giacomo Conterno. When Conterno purchased the Cascina Francia vineyard (a monopole) in 1974 it was a wheat field, although vines had been planted there in the past. There are no known pre-Conterno wines from Cascina Francia. Once the estate began making wines from Cascina Francia (first vintage 1978) they focused all of their attention on that vineyard and ceased using purchased fruit. Given all of the change in Piedmont over the last thirty-plus years it is hard to believe, but Conterno never acquired another parcel - until now. There are two hectares of Nebbiolo and one of Barbera which will become new, separate bottlings. Roberto Conterno told me it will be two to three years before the vineyard responds to the work he is doing today. Unfortunately 2008 has been a challenging growing season characterized by abundant rain in the spring and summer, along with hail, which damaged a portion of the fruit, so total production from Cerretta is expected to be small. Still, it will be fascinating to see what Conterno comes up with from their new vineyards in Cerretta. As for the new releases, they are drop-dead gorgeous. While some of these wines are increasingly difficult to afford, at the end of the day it is hard to begrudge the commercial success of one of Italy's historic estates, which in many ways, has been a long time coming. The late Giovanni Conterno and his wife Yvonne made enormous sacrifices over the years. In 1974 they paid a princely sum for their Cascina Francia vineyard, then in the early 1980s they built their current winemaking facility, all while putting five children through school. Today Roberto Conterno makes wines that can hold their own with the very finest wines made anywhere in the world, and in that context theses Barolos remain fairly priced. This is an estate that has achieved its success the hard way, by earning it - not just over the years, but over the decades.
00
2001
2024 - 2041
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00
2001
2021 - 2051
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I won’t soon forget this spectacular dinner at Ristorante Osteria Carletti, a cozy restaurant/inn located in Bedano, Switzerland. For the occasion, dear friends in Lugano surprised me with a number of stunning wines and personal favorites. What a lineup!
00
2001
2016 - 2041
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2001
2021 - 2041
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Readers fortunate enough to own Conterno's 2001s would do well to forget about the wines for a good 5-10 years. These are some of the most backward, Barolis of the vintage.
00
2001
2016 - 2041
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The biggest news at Giacomo Conterno over the last few months has been the estate's recently completed acquisition of three hectares in the Cerretta vineyard in Serralunga. This is a significant development considering the winery's history. Few estates in Italy are so closely identified with one piece of land as Giacomo Conterno. When Conterno purchased the Cascina Francia vineyard (a monopole) in 1974 it was a wheat field, although vines had been planted there in the past. There are no known pre-Conterno wines from Cascina Francia. Once the estate began making wines from Cascina Francia (first vintage 1978) they focused all of their attention on that vineyard and ceased using purchased fruit. Given all of the change in Piedmont over the last thirty-plus years it is hard to believe, but Conterno never acquired another parcel - until now. There are two hectares of Nebbiolo and one of Barbera which will become new, separate bottlings. Roberto Conterno told me it will be two to three years before the vineyard responds to the work he is doing today. Unfortunately 2008 has been a challenging growing season characterized by abundant rain in the spring and summer, along with hail, which damaged a portion of the fruit, so total production from Cerretta is expected to be small. Still, it will be fascinating to see what Conterno comes up with from their new vineyards in Cerretta. As for the new releases, they are drop-dead gorgeous. While some of these wines are increasingly difficult to afford, at the end of the day it is hard to begrudge the commercial success of one of Italy's historic estates, which in many ways, has been a long time coming. The late Giovanni Conterno and his wife Yvonne made enormous sacrifices over the years. In 1974 they paid a princely sum for their Cascina Francia vineyard, then in the early 1980s they built their current winemaking facility, all while putting five children through school. Today Roberto Conterno makes wines that can hold their own with the very finest wines made anywhere in the world, and in that context theses Barolos remain fairly priced. This is an estate that has achieved its success the hard way, by earning it - not just over the years, but over the decades.
00
2001
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Roberto Conterno's 2002 Barolo Monfortino is a legend before its time, as the neighbors have been talking about it for years and the wine is still nowhere near being bottled. In this mostly dreadful vintage in which virtually no producers released single-vineyard wines, Conterno announced early on that he'd be offering the estate's flagship Monfortino bottling. The reason? Conterno's Cascina Francia vines in Serralunga were spared the September hailstorm, and Conterno let the fruit hang very late in order to get sound phenolic ripeness. "It basically stopped raining after the early September hailstorm in the region and we benefited from a long period with cool nights. We eventually harvested in Cascina Francia on October 18 and 19, eliminating only the dried grapes. There was very little need to throw out anything else in 2002. " Conterno went on: "There was no in-between in this vintage," he told me. "There's either nebbiolo, which in this region was unfortunately often bottled as Barolo, or there's wine with great power. When we saw what we had harvested, my father said 'let's make only Monfortino. '" Conterno told me I was the first journalist he had showed the wine to (?), then made me promise not to publish a note. I can report that the sample I tasted, though reduced, had a very deep color; a wonderfully primary, sappy nose; almost shockingly young flavors of black fruits and minerals; and building tannins that reached the incisors. It clearly offers outstanding potential, but it remains to be seen how the market will respond to an expensive cult bottling from a forgettable vintage. As a rule, Conterno bottles his Monfortino after seven years of aging in large ovals. ("The reason we harvest so late is that we use only the tannins from the grapes, so we need to have full phenolic maturity," Conterno explained. ) He racks his wine three or four times in the first year, then once a year "at most" thereafter. "The 2001 went two or three years without a racking," he told me. "There's no rule; it depends on how the wine tastes. You know, it's more important that people recognize my wines in a tasting than like them. Otherwise we risk getting lost in the ocean of wine. " Conterno loves the 2004 vintage for both barbera and nebbiolo. "We had incredible fruit and there are many similarities to 2001: similar quantity and similar elements. In both years we eliminated about half of the grapes in a green harvest, and we made only about 28 hectoliters per hectare of Barolo in both years. " (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, New York, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2001
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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "
00
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
2000
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These are two exceptional Baroli from proprietor Roberto Conterno. The Cascina Francia shows the sexiness of the vintage, while Monfortino captures the power. The former is ready to deliver pleasure now, the latter may very well prove to be nearly immortal.
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Roberto Conterno's 2002 Barolo Monfortino is a legend before its time, as the neighbors have been talking about it for years and the wine is still nowhere near being bottled. In this mostly dreadful vintage in which virtually no producers released single-vineyard wines, Conterno announced early on that he'd be offering the estate's flagship Monfortino bottling. The reason? Conterno's Cascina Francia vines in Serralunga were spared the September hailstorm, and Conterno let the fruit hang very late in order to get sound phenolic ripeness. "It basically stopped raining after the early September hailstorm in the region and we benefited from a long period with cool nights. We eventually harvested in Cascina Francia on October 18 and 19, eliminating only the dried grapes. There was very little need to throw out anything else in 2002. " Conterno went on: "There was no in-between in this vintage," he told me. "There's either nebbiolo, which in this region was unfortunately often bottled as Barolo, or there's wine with great power. When we saw what we had harvested, my father said 'let's make only Monfortino. '" Conterno told me I was the first journalist he had showed the wine to (?), then made me promise not to publish a note. I can report that the sample I tasted, though reduced, had a very deep color; a wonderfully primary, sappy nose; almost shockingly young flavors of black fruits and minerals; and building tannins that reached the incisors. It clearly offers outstanding potential, but it remains to be seen how the market will respond to an expensive cult bottling from a forgettable vintage. As a rule, Conterno bottles his Monfortino after seven years of aging in large ovals. ("The reason we harvest so late is that we use only the tannins from the grapes, so we need to have full phenolic maturity," Conterno explained. ) He racks his wine three or four times in the first year, then once a year "at most" thereafter. "The 2001 went two or three years without a racking," he told me. "There's no rule; it depends on how the wine tastes. You know, it's more important that people recognize my wines in a tasting than like them. Otherwise we risk getting lost in the ocean of wine. " Conterno loves the 2004 vintage for both barbera and nebbiolo. "We had incredible fruit and there are many similarities to 2001: similar quantity and similar elements. In both years we eliminated about half of the grapes in a green harvest, and we made only about 28 hectoliters per hectare of Barolo in both years. " (Numerous importers, including Douglas Polaner Selections, New York, NY and The Rare Wine Company, Sonoma, CA)
00
2000
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This is another set of superb releases from Giacomo Conterno one of the bastions of traditionally made Barolos. While Conterno's wines have often been profound, in recent vintages the estate has found another level of finesse that was sometimes m issing in the wines. It is hard to say if that is because of a general trend towards warmer vintages, the estate's focus on making just three wines, or small improvements in vineyard and cellar work, but the fact remains that over the past few vintages Roberto Conterno has produced the best and most cons istently outstanding wines in h is venerable firm's long h istory. The wines he has in barrel amply confirm th is very positive trend.
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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "
00
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Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1999
2020 - 2039
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1999
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Giovanni and Roberto Conterno made two of their all-time greatest Barolos in 1999. I remember drinking a lot of the 1999 Cascina Francia when it was first released. At the time, it was (relatively) inexpensive and no one had an interest in the vintage. How much things have changed since then. Readers who are fortunate enough to own the 1999s are going to be thrilled.
00
1999
2014 - 2039
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1999
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This wine was tasted during La Festa del Barolo's Gala Dinner in April 2013.
"The spirit of sharing and camaraderie the world’s best wines inspire was in evidence at La Festa del Barolo, where I was fortunate to enjoy a range of emotionally moving, transcendental wines." Antonio Galloni
00
1999
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
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1999
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Ask producers in the region which wine represents the pinnacle of winemaking in the Langhe the answer you are most likely to hear is Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino, which has long been an iconic wine in these parts. The estate produces three wines, all from its Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga. The Barbera is usually one of the top wines in the region. It sees 21 months of aging in medium size casks before being released. Conterno is most known for his two Barolos, Cascina Francia and the Monfortino Riserva, which is only produced in top vintages. When the vintage warrants, Conterno makes a selection of the very best grapes just before harvest, and this fruit is destined for the Monfortino. Depending on climactic conditions various parcels within the Cascina Francia vineyard mature differently, so the exact source of the fruit for the Monfortino can vary from year to year. Cascina Francia is fermented in stainless steel, with temperature control, for 3-4 weeks. Aging takes place in large Slavonian oak casks for 4 years. For the Monfortino, the grapes are fermented in a combination of open-top wood vats and stainless steel tanks without temperature control for 4-5 weeks. The wine is then aged in a single large Slavonian oak cask for 7 years. Conterno employs a very minimalist approach in the cellar when it comes to making his wines. He believes the work is done in the vineyards, where his yields are typically below 4,000 kilos per hectare. Conterno employs only natural yeasts and the wines are not fined or filtered prior to bottling. Both of Conterno's Barolos are legendary for their extraordinary complexity and aging potential. Monfortino in particular is a reference point wine in the region, a standard among which all other wines are measured, both modern and traditional. Simply put, these are reference-point wines for the region that no one who loves Barolo will want to be without. The only problem consumers are likely to face is one of allocation of resources, as Conterno has a range of exceptional wines from recent vintages on the market today. While not inexpensive, the quality of these wines is extraordinary, and I can't recommend them highly enough. In particular the 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is not to be missed. “I've always believed 1999 is a truly great vintage, one that unites classical structure with ripeness, profound aromatics and power,” says Roberto Conterno. “Of course the wines will require some bottle age to come around, but these are magnificent Barolos that will be extremely long-lived. We had a very well-balanced growing season in 1999. We received a healthy amount of snow in the winter, which gave the vines some reserves of water. The spring was warm, but the temperatures remarkably consistent, so I didn't need to intervene much in the vineyard at all. We had a warm summer, but without excessive heat, and very even weather all the way through the fall. The harvest was fairly late. We began picking around October 16-17, so although not quite as late as 1996, when we harvested the nebbiolos on the 20th of October, it was still a fairly late harvest by today's standards. The vines were not overly productive so we only ended up dropping 30-35% of our fruit during the green harvests, as opposed to vintages like 2001 and 2004 which required more dramatic greenharvesting.”
00
1999
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“I've always believed 1999 is a truly great vintage, one that unites classical structure with ripeness, profound aromatics and power,” says Roberto Conterno. “Of course the wines will require some bottle age to come around, but these are magnificent Barolos that will be extremely long-lived.” Certainly the 1990s was a great decade for this estate and its wines. Conterno produced his flagship Riserva Monfortino no fewer than seven times. I have been fortunate to taste many vintages of Monfortino. Regardless of what conventional wisdom says about the quality of vintages, the magic of these wines always emerges provided readers are patient and give the wines plenty of decanting time. “We had a very well-balanced growing season in 1999. We received a healthy amount of snow in the winter, which gave the vines some reserves of water. The spring was warm, but the temperatures remarkably consistent, so I didn't need to intervene much in the vineyard at all. We had a warm summer, but without excessive heat, and very even weather all the way through the fall. The harvest was fairly late. We began picking around October 16-17, so although not quite as late as 1996, when we harvested the Nebbiolos on the 20th of October, it was still a fairly late harvest by today's standards. The vines were not overly productive so we only ended up dropping 30-35% of our fruit during the green harvests, as opposed to vintages like 2001 and 2004 which required more dramatic green- harvesting.” There will be no Cascina Francia in 2002, but there will be a Monfortino. To say that it is the most eagerly anticipated wine of the vintage would be a gross understatement. Unfortunately I don't think this wine will be bottled anytime soon, even by Monfortino standards, as Conterno told me recently “I don't think seven years of cask will be enough to soften this wine, it may well require additional aging. For us 2002 is not a good vintage, rather it is a great vintage.”
00
1999
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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "
00
1999
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Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1998
2020 - 2038
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00
1998
2014 - 2038
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1998
2013 - 2023
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Ask producers in the region which wine represents the pinnacle of winemaking in the Langhe the answer you are most likely to hear is Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino, which has long been an iconic wine in these parts. The estate produces three wines, all from its Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga. The Barbera is usually one of the top wines in the region. It sees 21 months of aging in medium size casks before being released. Conterno is most known for his two Barolos, Cascina Francia and the Monfortino Riserva, which is only produced in top vintages. When the vintage warrants, Conterno makes a selection of the very best grapes just before harvest, and this fruit is destined for the Monfortino. Depending on climactic conditions various parcels within the Cascina Francia vineyard mature differently, so the exact source of the fruit for the Monfortino can vary from year to year. Cascina Francia is fermented in stainless steel, with temperature control, for 3-4 weeks. Aging takes place in large Slavonian oak casks for 4 years. For the Monfortino, the grapes are fermented in a combination of open-top wood vats and stainless steel tanks without temperature control for 4-5 weeks. The wine is then aged in a single large Slavonian oak cask for 7 years. Conterno employs a very minimalist approach in the cellar when it comes to making his wines. He believes the work is done in the vineyards, where his yields are typically below 4,000 kilos per hectare. Conterno employs only natural yeasts and the wines are not fined or filtered prior to bottling. Both of Conterno's Barolos are legendary for their extraordinary complexity and aging potential. Monfortino in particular is a reference point wine in the region, a standard among which all other wines are measured, both modern and traditional. Simply put, these are reference-point wines for the region that no one who loves Barolo will want to be without. The only problem consumers are likely to face is one of allocation of resources, as Conterno has a range of exceptional wines from recent vintages on the market today. While not inexpensive, the quality of these wines is extraordinary, and I can't recommend them highly enough. In particular the 1999 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is not to be missed. “I've always believed 1999 is a truly great vintage, one that unites classical structure with ripeness, profound aromatics and power,” says Roberto Conterno. “Of course the wines will require some bottle age to come around, but these are magnificent Barolos that will be extremely long-lived. We had a very well-balanced growing season in 1999. We received a healthy amount of snow in the winter, which gave the vines some reserves of water. The spring was warm, but the temperatures remarkably consistent, so I didn't need to intervene much in the vineyard at all. We had a warm summer, but without excessive heat, and very even weather all the way through the fall. The harvest was fairly late. We began picking around October 16-17, so although not quite as late as 1996, when we harvested the nebbiolos on the 20th of October, it was still a fairly late harvest by today's standards. The vines were not overly productive so we only ended up dropping 30-35% of our fruit during the green harvests, as opposed to vintages like 2001 and 2004 which required more dramatic greenharvesting.”
00
1998
2013 - 2013
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For our January meeting my local tasting group gathered to survey the wines of Francesco Rinaldi and Luciano Sandrone, two producers who represent different schools of thought when it comes to Barolo. By the time the evening was over however, we had also opened terrific bottles from Bruno Giacosa, Bartolo Mascarello, and Giacomo Conterno. Not a bad way to spend a cold winter evening. On this night I was fortunate to host the group at my house. For the occasion I prepared a simple meal to accompany the wines, including tagliolini al ragu (featuring pasta directly from Alba), osso buco, and a selection of cheeses. As always, a great time was had by all.
We started with a selection of wines from Francesco Rinaldi, a producer whose wines I have only tasted sporadically over the years. As much as I love traditional Barolo, the house style here is on the austere side, and frankly a bit much for me. Some might say the wines simply need time to reach maturity. That may be the case, but even the wines from 1958 and 1964 retained the estate's characteristic unyielding, monolithic personality and it is not likely that any amount of further bottle age will alter their fundamental qualities. That said, several of my fellow tasters found the wines captivating and more enjoyable than I did. Regardless, this was a great opportunity to taste this estate's wines over a span of years including many historic vintages such as 1958, 1964, 1971, 1982, and 1985. The bottles were all pristine and the wines have held up extremely well.
Our next grouping consisted of two wines served blind. Giacosa's 1986 Barbaresco Santo Stefano and Bartolo Mascarello's 1980 Barolo show the heights Nebbiolo can reach in the hands of a serious producer even in lesser vintages. Both wines were outstanding and while clearly not at the level of each respective producer's finest wines, they offer a compelling mature-Nebbiolo drinking experience today. We then moved into a flight of Luciano Sandrone's great Barolos from the 1980s. Over the years Sandrone has been the producer who has most successfully bridged the gap between traditional and modern styles in Barolo. Tasting these wines together was a revelation, allowing us to track this producer's evolution. The only thing missing was a bottle of the mythical 1990 to cap things off, but as the song goes, you can't always get what you want.
After several hours of tasting and debating we arrived at our final flight. The theme? Monfortino old and new. We were fortunate to taste an impeccable bottle of the 1978 Monfortino, which is on my short list as one of the greatest Barolos ever produced. Tasting this wine from a perfect bottle is always an unforgettable experience. With it we paired the 1998, the most recent release. It was a great way to finish off the dinner.
00
1998
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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "
00
1998
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Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1997
2020 - 2037
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00
1997
2017 - 2037
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1997
2014 - 2027
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1997
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This wine was tasted at La Festa del Barolo 2011 at Del Posto, New York, in March 2011
00
1997
2005 - 2005
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In May of this year I attended two very special tastings at Cru in New York. Winemakers Roberto Conterno and Mauro Mascarello were in town to present extensive verticals of their Barolos. The first tasting took place in the afternoon and featured current releases as well as a few older vintages. Although I generally avoid trade events because they don't allow enough time to accurately assess each wine, this sit-down tasting, which was hosted by importer Doug Polaner, was extremely well organized. Cru Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did an outstanding job in coordinating the service of the wines, which was no small feat. Between the afternoon tasting and the dinner that followed, I don't think I have ever tasted so many profound and emotionally moving wines in a single day! The wines were double decanted a few hours prior to serving. Roberto Conterno kicked off the tasting by talking about his estate and its winemaking philosophy. Giacomo Conterno is without question one of the most historically significant domaines in Piedmont, and all of Italy for that matter. The winery is named after Roberto's grandfather, Giacomo, who was a pioneer in producing, bottling, and exporting high quality wines decades before such practices became common in the region. It was also Giacomo who bottled the first Barolo Riserva in 1920. Giacomo's son Giovanni took over the estate in the early 1960s. Despite his untimely passing last year, Giovanni Conterno remains a towering figure in the Piedmontese landscape. Even today he is spoken about in the most respectful and reverential terms as a great man. “My grandfather's wines were good, but it was my father who really took quality to the next level,” explains Giovanni's son Roberto, who has worked in the winery since 1988. As happens with any generational change, Roberto Conterno receives many questions about the direction he is taking the estate. “A family friend said to me recently ‘your father was a traditionalist, but you are worse!'” recounts Conterno, assuring the audience that nothing will change in this winery's approach now that he is in charge. Conterno makes two Barolos both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont. The vineyard was purchased by Giovanni Conterno in 1974 and measures six hectares. Cascina Francia is made in a traditional style, with natural yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration lasting 3-4 weeks. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks and are bottled in the summer of the fourth year following the harvest. In great vintages a special selection of the best fruit is made in the vineyard and that fruit becomes the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, perhaps the single most iconic wine in all of Piedmont. Monfortino is also made with natural yeasts, although fermentation/maceration time is longer, lasting 4-5 weeks, and is carried out without the aid of temperature control. Current vintages are aged seven years in cask, but past vintages have seen as much as 10 years of cask aging before being released. Monfortino is legendary for its extraordinary longevity, which is usually measured in decades.
00
1997
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Roberto Conterno rates 1999 tops among recent vintages, followed by 2001 and then 2000. "Nineteen ninety-nine is the most complex wine," he told me, "while the 2000 is a very elegant Barolo for earlier drinking. Two thousand one was an excellent vintage with a tendency toward overproduction," he went on, adding that by cutting a lot of grapes in August he was able to limit production to about 30 hectoliters per hectare. "The young 2001s are currently sterner than the relatively open 2000s," he noted. As I reported in Issue 105, the estate replaced its freisa and dolcetto with barbera and nebbiolo after the 2000 vintage, and now ages its barbera for 21 months in large casks (prior to the 2001 vintage, the barbera was bottled the summer after the harvest). But with that exception, Conterno pointed out, "nothing has changed in the vinification here, and there is never any clarification of the wines prior to bottling. "
00
1997
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Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1996
2020 - 2040
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00
1996
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This unforgettable evening was an auction lot built around an all-access pass to wines from my personal cellar paired with dinner donated by Saison that was sold at the most recent Festa del Barolo to support children’s pediatrics at the Mount Sinai Hospital. I would like to extend a huge ‘thank you!’ to our patrons for their extraordinary generosity. This dinner raised $55,000, 100% of which went to charity.
00
1996
2016 - 2036
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Readers who want to get a sense of how much the wines have developed at Giacomo Conterno could start by tasting the 1996s and comparing them to a recent vintage with similar structural attributes, the most obvious being 2010. When the 1996s were released, they were impenetrable and hard as nails. The 2010s are also massively structured, but much more available at a similar stage in their lives. These are two gorgeous wines from Giovanni and Yvonne Conterno. It may seem hard to believe today, but when these wines were first released, they were widely availalble.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1996
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1996
2012 - 2012
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The following wines were tasted at a class on Barolo and Barbaresco I held at Crush Wine and Spirits in mid-town Manhattan in February 2006. The evening provided a great opportunity to check in on a few new releases as well as taste some of the region's benchmark wines from nearly all of the most important vintages back to 1961.
00
1996
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1995
2020 - 2030
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00
1995
2018 - 2030
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This recent charity dinner at Saison was easily the finest meal I have had there and also one of my best dinners of 2018, period. The evening came together as a charity lot that was auctioned off at the most recent La Festa del Barolo to benefit children’s oncology at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Saison donated dinner and I contributed the wines from my cellar. It was a spectacular night of food, wine and conversation, all for a great cause.
00
1995
2014 - 2030
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1995
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Among the new developments at this renowned traditionalist: the Conternos replaced their dolcetto and freisa with nebbiolo and barbera after the 2000 vintage and will now concentrate on just two varieties. Also, beginning with the 2001 vintage, they will age their barbera a full year longer (21 months vs. 9) - "the way the wines were made 30 years ago," according to Roberto Conterno, who added that 2001 was a good time to make this change as this vintage supports longer aging.The Conterno Barolos continue to spend a long time on their skins during the fermentation (a month or more for the Monfortino, a bit less for the Cascina Francia) and are aged exclusively in large old Slavonian ovals. The Cascina Francia is bottled during the fourth year after the vintage and the Monfortino during the seventh year. "Only the use of large barrels enables us to maintain the particular aromatic characteristics of each year," explains Conterno. "The weather conditions we have during July create the terpenes, the classic Barolo perfumes like rose petal and camphor, and we find these aromatic characteristics only after three or four years of aging the wines in larger casks. Certainly barriques give certain advantages but we think that they standardize the wines." Conterno told me he was most fond of '99 and '97 among his recent vintages, but he noted that '98 had a more classical balance.
00
1993
2020 - 2030
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00
1993
2014 - 2023
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1993
2008 - 2008
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In May of this year I attended two very special tastings at Cru in New York. Winemakers Roberto Conterno and Mauro Mascarello were in town to present extensive verticals of their Barolos. The first tasting took place in the afternoon and featured current releases as well as a few older vintages. Although I generally avoid trade events because they don't allow enough time to accurately assess each wine, this sit-down tasting, which was hosted by importer Doug Polaner, was extremely well organized. Cru Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did an outstanding job in coordinating the service of the wines, which was no small feat. Between the afternoon tasting and the dinner that followed, I don't think I have ever tasted so many profound and emotionally moving wines in a single day! The wines were double decanted a few hours prior to serving. Roberto Conterno kicked off the tasting by talking about his estate and its winemaking philosophy. Giacomo Conterno is without question one of the most historically significant domaines in Piedmont, and all of Italy for that matter. The winery is named after Roberto's grandfather, Giacomo, who was a pioneer in producing, bottling, and exporting high quality wines decades before such practices became common in the region. It was also Giacomo who bottled the first Barolo Riserva in 1920. Giacomo's son Giovanni took over the estate in the early 1960s. Despite his untimely passing last year, Giovanni Conterno remains a towering figure in the Piedmontese landscape. Even today he is spoken about in the most respectful and reverential terms as a great man. “My grandfather's wines were good, but it was my father who really took quality to the next level,” explains Giovanni's son Roberto, who has worked in the winery since 1988. As happens with any generational change, Roberto Conterno receives many questions about the direction he is taking the estate. “A family friend said to me recently ‘your father was a traditionalist, but you are worse!'” recounts Conterno, assuring the audience that nothing will change in this winery's approach now that he is in charge. Conterno makes two Barolos both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont. The vineyard was purchased by Giovanni Conterno in 1974 and measures six hectares. Cascina Francia is made in a traditional style, with natural yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration lasting 3-4 weeks. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks and are bottled in the summer of the fourth year following the harvest. In great vintages a special selection of the best fruit is made in the vineyard and that fruit becomes the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, perhaps the single most iconic wine in all of Piedmont. Monfortino is also made with natural yeasts, although fermentation/maceration time is longer, lasting 4-5 weeks, and is carried out without the aid of temperature control. Current vintages are aged seven years in cask, but past vintages have seen as much as 10 years of cask aging before being released. Monfortino is legendary for its extraordinary longevity, which is usually measured in decades.
00
1990
2020 - 2040
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00
1990
2018 - 2048
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When friends weren’t able to travel to Piedmont this past fall, they did the next best thing and brought Piedmont to their home. This intimate dinner featured a lovingly chosen selection of Piedmontese classics, paired with a fabulous dinner and an ungodly amount of white truffles. What could possibly be better?
00
1990
2014 - 2020
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1990
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1990
2020 - 2050
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Giacomo Conterno's Barolos Cascina Francia and Monfortino are produced from the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, typically one of the last vineyards in the region to be harvested. Both wines are made along rigorously traditional methods, with long fermentations and extended aging in oak that reaches seven years for the Monfortino.
00
1990
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
00
1990
2008 - 2008
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In May of this year I attended two very special tastings at Cru in New York. Winemakers Roberto Conterno and Mauro Mascarello were in town to present extensive verticals of their Barolos. The first tasting took place in the afternoon and featured current releases as well as a few older vintages. Although I generally avoid trade events because they don't allow enough time to accurately assess each wine, this sit-down tasting, which was hosted by importer Doug Polaner, was extremely well organized. Cru Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did an outstanding job in coordinating the service of the wines, which was no small feat. Between the afternoon tasting and the dinner that followed, I don't think I have ever tasted so many profound and emotionally moving wines in a single day! The wines were double decanted a few hours prior to serving. Roberto Conterno kicked off the tasting by talking about his estate and its winemaking philosophy. Giacomo Conterno is without question one of the most historically significant domaines in Piedmont, and all of Italy for that matter. The winery is named after Roberto's grandfather, Giacomo, who was a pioneer in producing, bottling, and exporting high quality wines decades before such practices became common in the region. It was also Giacomo who bottled the first Barolo Riserva in 1920. Giacomo's son Giovanni took over the estate in the early 1960s. Despite his untimely passing last year, Giovanni Conterno remains a towering figure in the Piedmontese landscape. Even today he is spoken about in the most respectful and reverential terms as a great man. “My grandfather's wines were good, but it was my father who really took quality to the next level,” explains Giovanni's son Roberto, who has worked in the winery since 1988. As happens with any generational change, Roberto Conterno receives many questions about the direction he is taking the estate. “A family friend said to me recently ‘your father was a traditionalist, but you are worse!'” recounts Conterno, assuring the audience that nothing will change in this winery's approach now that he is in charge. Conterno makes two Barolos both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont. The vineyard was purchased by Giovanni Conterno in 1974 and measures six hectares. Cascina Francia is made in a traditional style, with natural yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration lasting 3-4 weeks. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks and are bottled in the summer of the fourth year following the harvest. In great vintages a special selection of the best fruit is made in the vineyard and that fruit becomes the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, perhaps the single most iconic wine in all of Piedmont. Monfortino is also made with natural yeasts, although fermentation/maceration time is longer, lasting 4-5 weeks, and is carried out without the aid of temperature control. Current vintages are aged seven years in cask, but past vintages have seen as much as 10 years of cask aging before being released. Monfortino is legendary for its extraordinary longevity, which is usually measured in decades.
00
1988
2020 - 2026
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00
1988
2014 - 2024
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1988
2005 - 2005
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In May of this year I attended two very special tastings at Cru in New York. Winemakers Roberto Conterno and Mauro Mascarello were in town to present extensive verticals of their Barolos. The first tasting took place in the afternoon and featured current releases as well as a few older vintages. Although I generally avoid trade events because they don't allow enough time to accurately assess each wine, this sit-down tasting, which was hosted by importer Doug Polaner, was extremely well organized. Cru Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did an outstanding job in coordinating the service of the wines, which was no small feat. Between the afternoon tasting and the dinner that followed, I don't think I have ever tasted so many profound and emotionally moving wines in a single day! The wines were double decanted a few hours prior to serving. Roberto Conterno kicked off the tasting by talking about his estate and its winemaking philosophy. Giacomo Conterno is without question one of the most historically significant domaines in Piedmont, and all of Italy for that matter. The winery is named after Roberto's grandfather, Giacomo, who was a pioneer in producing, bottling, and exporting high quality wines decades before such practices became common in the region. It was also Giacomo who bottled the first Barolo Riserva in 1920. Giacomo's son Giovanni took over the estate in the early 1960s. Despite his untimely passing last year, Giovanni Conterno remains a towering figure in the Piedmontese landscape. Even today he is spoken about in the most respectful and reverential terms as a great man. “My grandfather's wines were good, but it was my father who really took quality to the next level,” explains Giovanni's son Roberto, who has worked in the winery since 1988. As happens with any generational change, Roberto Conterno receives many questions about the direction he is taking the estate. “A family friend said to me recently ‘your father was a traditionalist, but you are worse!'” recounts Conterno, assuring the audience that nothing will change in this winery's approach now that he is in charge. Conterno makes two Barolos both from the Cascina Francia vineyard, one of the great monopole sites in Piedmont. The vineyard was purchased by Giovanni Conterno in 1974 and measures six hectares. Cascina Francia is made in a traditional style, with natural yeasts and temperature-controlled fermentation and maceration lasting 3-4 weeks. The wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks and are bottled in the summer of the fourth year following the harvest. In great vintages a special selection of the best fruit is made in the vineyard and that fruit becomes the Barolo Riserva Monfortino, perhaps the single most iconic wine in all of Piedmont. Monfortino is also made with natural yeasts, although fermentation/maceration time is longer, lasting 4-5 weeks, and is carried out without the aid of temperature control. Current vintages are aged seven years in cask, but past vintages have seen as much as 10 years of cask aging before being released. Monfortino is legendary for its extraordinary longevity, which is usually measured in decades.
00
1987
2020 - 2030
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00
1987
2014 - 2029
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1987
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A breathtaking flight of Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino followed. On a normal night any one of these four wines would have been a highlight. This was one of the most mind-blowing flights of Monfortinos I have ever experienced.
00
1985
2020 - 2035
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00
1985
2014 - 2024
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1985
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Four Seasons Restaurant, New York, in September 2011
00
1985
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
00
1985
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1985
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A breathtaking flight of Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino followed. On a normal night any one of these four wines would have been a highlight. This was one of the most mind-blowing flights of Monfortinos I have ever experienced.
00
1985
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
00
1985
2006 - 2016
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It's always a lot of fun to get together with my tasting group. I knew this was going to be an unforgettable dinner when the first wine of the evening was listed as the 1985 Sassicaia, one of the most legendary and collectible wines ever produced in Italy. The plan also included a deep selection of classics, including three Giacosa Barolos from 1978, a mini-vertical of Giacosa's Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano spanning 1982-1990, and a mini-vertical of Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino covering the historic 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages. We were fortunate, and indeed privileged, to taste these wines from bottles that had been perfectly stored since release. As always it would be a great pleasure to share these wines and the animated conversation they bring out in a small group setting. What a night lay ahead!
We started with the 1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, which was impressive for its deep color, fresh aromatics and vibrant flavors. It offered attractive plummy fruit, cassis and toasted oak notes on a medium-bodied frame with excellent length and fine, silky tannins, conveying an impression of understated elegance. Readers fortunate enough to own this wine can look forward to at least another decade of prime drinking.
00
1985
2005 - 2005
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The subject of evaluating and rating vintages is one of the favorite topics of discussion among Piedmont lovers, so the opportunity to taste sixteen of the best 1985 Barolos and Barbarescos with a group of hardcore New York Nebbiolo fans made for a truly special evening.
Many insiders describe the 1985 vintage as a turning point for the wines. According to Luciano Sandrone “1985 was in many ways the first ‘modern,' hot vintage. The Barolos were uncharacteristically open from the start and have remained accessible.” Giacosa enologist Dante Scaglione says “1985 was the first vintage in which we had wines with very high alcohol. In fact, we wouldn't see such alcohol levels in our wines again until 2003. I view 1985 as a vintage that is ready to drink and one which will not be especially long-lived going forward.” Roberto Conterno had a slightly different take commenting that “I wouldn't necessarily say our wines were accessible from the beginning, however today the 1985s are very expressive and it is a great vintage to drink today.”
Because of the hot growing season and early appeal of the vintage, some have predicted that the wines would not age well. For the most part, I was amazed at how well these Barolos showed. Many of the wines displayed lively color, with rich, sweet fruit, and enough underlying structure to provide balance. While the wines as a group are mature, any suggestion that they are falling apart is simply not borne out by this tasting. How long will the wines last? That is a hard question to answer, since provenance is such a huge variable, but I think it is safe to say that for many of these wines well-stored bottles have another decade of life ahead, and perhaps more. These 1985s offer great drinking today in a more accessible, softer style than either 1982 or 1989, the other two great vintages from the 1980s.
Unfortunately we also had a few bad bottles, which I suppose is to be expected in a tasting like this, although the percentage of corked/cooked bottles was higher than we would have liked (around 25%). When these wines were first released fifteen years ago there simply wasn't the kind of attention to temperature-controlled shipping that we have today and several wines appeared to have been damaged by excess heat at some point in their lives. The biggest lesson here for consumers is that there is no substitute for buying these wines on release and cellaring them. Doing so is the only reliable way to minimize the possibility of some very expensive disappointments at a later date.
The wines were double-decanted and served blind in flights of four. The identity of the wines was revealed only after all of the wines had been tasted and discussed. Tasting these wines blind with a group of passionate and knowledgeable Barolo fans was a great learning experience, but also a humbling one. Mature Barolos are wines of extraordinary complexity and can fool even the most seasoned palates, as we would be reminded throughout the evening.
After the formal tasting was concluded, we enjoyed a delicious dinner, and finished off what was left of these spectacular wines. We also tasted Prunotto's 1985 Barolo Bussia, which was fresh, youthful, and delicious, although it didn't quite reach the level of the best wines on this evening. A great bottle of Bruno Giacosa's 1986 Barolo Riserva Falletto followed, and it was one of the best wines of the night, prompting some of the tasters to wonder if this producer may have been more successful in 1986 than 1985. The evening closed with the outrageous 1983 Recioto from Giuseppe Quintarelli. While I don't have enough experience with this wine to put it into the proper context, I will say that it was breathtaking for its complexity, balance, and sheer appeal. At age 22 it appeared to be magically youthful, and my sense is that this is a wine whose aging potential is to be measured in decades rather than years.
00
1982
2020 - 2026
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00
1982
2014 - 2024
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted at the Fourth Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2011.
00
1982
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A breathtaking flight of Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino followed. On a normal night any one of these four wines would have been a highlight. This was one of the most mind-blowing flights of Monfortinos I have ever experienced.
00
1982
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
00
1982
2006 - 2021
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It's always a lot of fun to get together with my tasting group. I knew this was going to be an unforgettable dinner when the first wine of the evening was listed as the 1985 Sassicaia, one of the most legendary and collectible wines ever produced in Italy. The plan also included a deep selection of classics, including three Giacosa Barolos from 1978, a mini-vertical of Giacosa's Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano spanning 1982-1990, and a mini-vertical of Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino covering the historic 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages. We were fortunate, and indeed privileged, to taste these wines from bottles that had been perfectly stored since release. As always it would be a great pleasure to share these wines and the animated conversation they bring out in a small group setting. What a night lay ahead!
We started with the 1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, which was impressive for its deep color, fresh aromatics and vibrant flavors. It offered attractive plummy fruit, cassis and toasted oak notes on a medium-bodied frame with excellent length and fine, silky tannins, conveying an impression of understated elegance. Readers fortunate enough to own this wine can look forward to at least another decade of prime drinking.
00
1979
2017 - 2027
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park in New York City during November of 2012.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
00
1978
2006 - 2006
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For our January meeting my local tasting group gathered to survey the wines of Francesco Rinaldi and Luciano Sandrone, two producers who represent different schools of thought when it comes to Barolo. By the time the evening was over however, we had also opened terrific bottles from Bruno Giacosa, Bartolo Mascarello, and Giacomo Conterno. Not a bad way to spend a cold winter evening. On this night I was fortunate to host the group at my house. For the occasion I prepared a simple meal to accompany the wines, including tagliolini al ragu (featuring pasta directly from Alba), osso buco, and a selection of cheeses. As always, a great time was had by all.
We started with a selection of wines from Francesco Rinaldi, a producer whose wines I have only tasted sporadically over the years. As much as I love traditional Barolo, the house style here is on the austere side, and frankly a bit much for me. Some might say the wines simply need time to reach maturity. That may be the case, but even the wines from 1958 and 1964 retained the estate's characteristic unyielding, monolithic personality and it is not likely that any amount of further bottle age will alter their fundamental qualities. That said, several of my fellow tasters found the wines captivating and more enjoyable than I did. Regardless, this was a great opportunity to taste this estate's wines over a span of years including many historic vintages such as 1958, 1964, 1971, 1982, and 1985. The bottles were all pristine and the wines have held up extremely well.
Our next grouping consisted of two wines served blind. Giacosa's 1986 Barbaresco Santo Stefano and Bartolo Mascarello's 1980 Barolo show the heights Nebbiolo can reach in the hands of a serious producer even in lesser vintages. Both wines were outstanding and while clearly not at the level of each respective producer's finest wines, they offer a compelling mature-Nebbiolo drinking experience today. We then moved into a flight of Luciano Sandrone's great Barolos from the 1980s. Over the years Sandrone has been the producer who has most successfully bridged the gap between traditional and modern styles in Barolo. Tasting these wines together was a revelation, allowing us to track this producer's evolution. The only thing missing was a bottle of the mythical 1990 to cap things off, but as the song goes, you can't always get what you want.
After several hours of tasting and debating we arrived at our final flight. The theme? Monfortino old and new. We were fortunate to taste an impeccable bottle of the 1978 Monfortino, which is on my short list as one of the greatest Barolos ever produced. Tasting this wine from a perfect bottle is always an unforgettable experience. With it we paired the 1998, the most recent release. It was a great way to finish off the dinner.
00
1978
2006 - 2021
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It's always a lot of fun to get together with my tasting group. I knew this was going to be an unforgettable dinner when the first wine of the evening was listed as the 1985 Sassicaia, one of the most legendary and collectible wines ever produced in Italy. The plan also included a deep selection of classics, including three Giacosa Barolos from 1978, a mini-vertical of Giacosa's Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano spanning 1982-1990, and a mini-vertical of Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino covering the historic 1978, 1982, and 1985 vintages. We were fortunate, and indeed privileged, to taste these wines from bottles that had been perfectly stored since release. As always it would be a great pleasure to share these wines and the animated conversation they bring out in a small group setting. What a night lay ahead!
We started with the 1985 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, which was impressive for its deep color, fresh aromatics and vibrant flavors. It offered attractive plummy fruit, cassis and toasted oak notes on a medium-bodied frame with excellent length and fine, silky tannins, conveying an impression of understated elegance. Readers fortunate enough to own this wine can look forward to at least another decade of prime drinking.
00
1978
2006 - 2018
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For most observers 1978 occupies a hallowed place among the legendary vintages in Piedmont. From a purely historical perspective 1978 is also a fascinating vintage to study because it is the last important vintage in which the wines were largely made with traditional methods, both in the vineyards and in the cellar. These wines pre-date the arrival of the more modern style of winemaking which in the 1980s would begin to change the way many estates vinified and aged their wines. A recent dinner in New York with a group of die-hard Nebbiolo fanatics provided a great opportunity to re-visit many of the vintage's benchmark wines. As often happens, extraordinary vintages are the result of unpredictable and unexpected climactic conditions. “1978 was a very strange year,” says Mauro Mascarello. “The spring was quite damp, which resulted in a delayed and irregular flowering. The plants were carrying only about one-half of their normal amount of fruit. We basically had no summer, as the weather remained cool, rainy and foggy all the way through August. It really looked like it would be a terrible vintage. Then, all of a sudden, on the first of September the weather turned, and we had uninterrupted heat all the way through to October, with our harvest taking place in the second half of October.” The hot weather fully ripened the little fruit that remained and the naturally low yields gave some of the most concentrated, memorable wines ever made These 1978s show the extraordinary longevity that the best Barolos and Barbarescos offer. I was amazed at how youthful the wines were, an opinion shared by most, if not all, of the other tasters. Many wines displayed a lively, healthy color and appeared to be still full of life. Critics of traditionally made wines would say that the 1978s are an example of how these wines are never really ready to drink, and certainly the wines have required a great deal of patience. However, after having tasted more than twenty wines from this vintage over the last few months I can only conclude that the 1978s have proven to be well worth the effort of waiting. Well-stored bottles will provide the emotionally moving drinking experience that only a few of the world's great wines can offer. The wines were decanted several hours prior to serving and were tasted non-blind. While researching this article I had the opportunity to taste several other 1978s and also I include notes on those wines.
00
1978
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A recent gathering of passionate Nebbiolo lovers in Boston provided a great opportunity to open a wide range of wines spanning four decades and the full gamut of styles. The wines were critically evaluated and discussed without food after which they were heartily enjoyed with a variety of delicious homemade dishes, among them our hosts' spectacular braised short ribs, which were so exceptional they nearly stole the show. The wines were decanted for several hours prior to being served and tasted blind. Given the casual nature of the evening notes on these wines should be interpreted as impressions rather than formal tasting notes.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted over dinner at the Third Annual White Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2009.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted during the La Paulee Gala Dinner in New York City, 2009.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted as a part of Festa di Barolo 2008.
00
1971
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A breathtaking flight of Giacomo Conterno's Barolo Riserva Monfortino followed. On a normal night any one of these four wines would have been a highlight. This was one of the most mind-blowing flights of Monfortinos I have ever experienced.
00
1970
2020 - 2030
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00
1970
2019 - 2029
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Both of these wines were made by Giovanni Conterno in the days before the family owned Cascina Francia and speak to another era, a time not that long ago when Piedmont was a starkly poor region. Wines from a vintage usually took many years to sell. Barolo was known only to a handful of passionate consumers, and families made do with the bare minimum. Nineteen-seventy has long lived in the shadows of 1971, but the best wines from the older vintage are spectacular, and in many ways, more classically austere than the 1971s, a year in which hot weather (for the time) yielded Barolos that are still marked by their intense concentration.
00
1970
2014 - 2024
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This wine was tasted as part of Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006, the first complete vertical of every vintage of Monfortino bottled in magnum between 1970 and 2006. The event was held on May 12, 2014 in London.
00
1970
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Tasted over lunch at Del Posto Ristorante in New York City, December 2007.
00
1967
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1964
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1961
2017 - 2017
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1961
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1961
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1961
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1961
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This wine was tasted during a charity dinner at Daniel in New York City, November 2007.
00
1961
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Della Notte in Baltimore, Jan 2007.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted as part of a charity dinner at Eleven Madison Park to benefit Haiti in June, 2010.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Alto in New York City, April 2008.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted as a part of Festa di Barolo 2008.
00
1958
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1955
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1955
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Alto in New York City, April 2008.
00
1955
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1947
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This wine was tasted over at The Modern, New York, in late December 2013 as part of a charity dinner to support the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City.
00
1947
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1945
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1943
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
00
1943
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The evening wound down with two flights of older Monfortinos. In the first flight the 1943 and 1955 were clearly fakes.
00
1926
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
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