2008 Riesling Rauenthaler Nonnenberg

Although its Gold Capsule Auslese was one of the finest wines of its ilk in 2008, this estate has long specialized more in dry rieslings, which account for the lion's share of its total production. So much so that front labels like that of its Rudesheim Estate do not even mention either riesling or trocken, those being self-explanatory, as they would be on a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet. As the 2008 Berg Schlossberg heartily attests, few estates do it better and even fewer make dry rieslings that mature so gracefully over time. Each year, I do a "ten years after" tasting of 60 top dry rieslings from my old guide to see which are in best form. Since his death in 2004, the winner is awarded the Bernhard Breuer Memorial Trophy. Almost without fail, at least one of Breuer's wines-now made by his brother Heinrich, daughter Theresa and loyal cellarmaster Hermann Schmoranz-scores among the top ten. This year, the 1998 Berg Schlossberg took fifth place. In dry years, the Nonnenberg site in Rauenthal often does better; 2008 was a classical vintage for the top sites in Rudesheim. Also recommended: 2008 Grauer Burgunder (87), 2008 Riesling Rudesheim Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Rauenthal Estate (85), 2008 Riesling Terra Montosa (87), 2008 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Trocken (90), 2008 Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken (91), 2008 Riesling Auslese (90). Other wines tasted: 2008 Riesling Sauvage, 2008 Riesling Charm. (Classical Wines, Seattle WA