2013 Darmagi

This is a compelling set of new releases from Gaja. Over the last few years, the winery has been in a state of transition as Angelo and Lucia Gaja have gradually handed over control to their children Gaia, Rossana and, more recently, Giovanni. One of the first and most significant developments has been a move towards more sustainable farming, a shift that has been under way for a number of years, partly in response to climate change. But there is more to what is happening at Gaja than just farming. The style of the wines has also changed, in some ways subtly and some ways much more dramatically. Readers will see that in these new releases. The triple flagships Costa Russi, Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo are once again being bottled as Barbarescos, a move that will be continued when Conteisa and Sperss are released as Barolos next year. More importantly than what is on the label, though, the wines are quite different in style. Gaja skipped the 2012 vintage entirely for single-vineyard wines in both Barbaresco and Barolo, so the 2013s represent a sort of re-boot. The Barbaresco and Costa Russi are super-classic, with bright Nebbiolo color and very little, if any, French oak influence. The Sorì Tildìn and Sorì San Lorenzo, while more restrained than in the past, are a bit darker and show subtle but noticeable French oak inflections. Either way, the 2013 Barbarescos are fabulous. I found the whites less convincing this year. Those wines appear to be works in progress as the younger generation takes over. These are exciting times at Gaja, that much is obvious. Also tasted: 2015 Rossj-Bass, 2015 Alteni di Brassica, 2014 Chardonnay Gaia & Rey.