2012 Darmagi

What does it take to stay at the top of the game for decades and generations? Sometimes it takes the courage to make radical changes. Angelo Gaja did it when he took over his family's winery in the 1970s. Even back then, Gaja was a prestigious estate, with high prices that had no equal in the region, but Gaja still turned the estate over on its head. The results since then speak for themselves. Today, the Gaja winery is going through a similar phase, although it is likely to be less radical. Angelo and Lucia Gaja's daughters Gaia and Rossana are increasingly in charge, while it is less clear what role awaits son Giovanni Gaja at the winery once he finishes his studies. The Gajas could have left things as they were and kept making wines in the same style that has brought them so much acclaim. Instead, everything here is being re-evaluated. For starters, the approach in the vineyards has changed dramatically. Today, the vineyards are farmed much more sustainably, with far greater use of natural products, more cover crops and an approach to creating an entire living ecosystem. For example, if you drive by Sorì Tildìn, you might get a whiff of cow manure that is used today or get stung by the bees that are cultivated on site. These changes are driven in part by an acute awareness of the degree to which climate change is altering the lifecycle of the vineyard, but also a broader aesthetic at Gaja that is also reflected in a shift towards greater finesse in the wines. Vineyards take at least a few years to adapt to change. Perhaps for that reason, the Gaja family felt the 2012 vintage did not provide optimal conditions for them. The Gajas have taken the highly unusual step of not bottling any of their single-vineyard wines from Barbaresco or Barolo, except for Darmagi.